Yes, Texans still line up in Fort Worth for Luby’s turkey, ‘square fish’ or a LuAnn
Luby’s, once as much a Texas icon as Whataburger or Dr Pepper, is making a comeback.
The old-time Southern-style home-cooking cafeteria is down to one Fort Worth-area location. But that location has a waiting line consistently for the bargain lunches and senior “LuAnn Platter” dinners, and the food holds up to the Luby’s of 78 years of Texas memories.
This is Luby’s big season. The restaurants sell complete Thanksgiving turkey dinners for 10 for less than $200, and they will open Thanksgiving Day to serve a complete dinner with turkey, dressing, gravy, sides and dessert for less than $14.
The first thing friends said when I told them I went to Luby’s was, “I didn’t know it was still open!”
Travelers on Interstate 20 seem to know. The parking lot and drive-thru line at 3312 SE Loop 820. Forest Hill, were dotted with out-of-state license plates.
The second comment from friends was, “Do they still have square fish?”
Yes, and fried chicken, chopped steak, fried catfish and chicken-fried steak, too.
The experience is classic cafeteria serving-line again — no more misguided attempts to go upscale — and the prices are around $10-$12, barely more than fast food for a dinner with vegetables and cornbread or rolls.
Fried “square fish” fillets became a punch line. But they’re also much better for the family than cheeseburgers. For an upgrade, try the grilled or blackened tilapia.
The line starts with a choice of about 15 salads and ends with at least that many desserts, including handsome pumpkin and pecan pies for the holidays.
The first Luby’s opened in Fort Worth in May 1946 at 3212 Camp Bowie Boulevard, between today’s Crescent hotel and Great Outdoors Sub Shop. Founders Earl Luby and his brother-in-law, Elbert Lavender, operated the Luby’s in North and West Texas before the restaurants eventually wound up in the hands of a San Antonio cousin, Bob Luby.
There are 37 Luby’s locations in Texas, about half in greater Houston. Dallas locations are at 13455 Midway Road and 5600 S. Hampton Road.
The Luby’s here is open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-293-0060, lubys.com.
This story was originally published October 30, 2024 at 5:30 AM.
