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What’s up at Saint-Émilion? (It’s open, but there’s a story)

The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion, newly reopened on West Seventh Street.
The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion, newly reopened on West Seventh Street. bud@star-telegram.com

Hey, Bud! I drove past Saint-Émilion Restaurant the other night and it looked full. I thought you said it moved?

—Rebecca, Fort Worth

It did. The fine-dining French restaurant known for 34 years as Saint-Émilion moved three blocks east and is now named Paris 7th. A new, more casual Saint-Émilion is now open at 3617 W. Seventh St., serving family-style coq au vin or ribeye steak and frites for two, plus entrees such as mussels, Basque chicken and a branzino-shrimp combo. There are $5 wines by the glass and more of a bistro atmosphere.

Hey. Bud! What happened to Aguilera’s Cafe?

—Rodney, Fort Worth

Santos Aguilera turned 91 the other day. He’s retired, and the little unmarked cafe at 2005 N. Grove St. won’t reopen. (Earlier this year, Virgie Martinez of Mi Cocinita retired, and Granny’s Tacos on Long Avenue closed. We are looking for the next great secret, hole-in-the-wall cafe.)


Eats Beat Ep. 147

DFW Restaurant Week


Hey, Bud! We have to drive to Bastrop and then Seguin. Looking for the best BBQ along the way to take to Mama.

—Cheryl, Fort Worth

Sounds like you’ll pass Louie Mueller’s Barbecue in Taylor. Mueller’s is the most consistent top-3 barbecue restaurant in Texas, and family members also opened other top restaurants. (The late pitmaster, Bobby Mueller, was in the TCU class of 1961.)

This story was originally published November 18, 2018 at 9:59 PM with the headline "What’s up at Saint-Émilion? (It’s open, but there’s a story)."

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Bud Kennedy
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth Star-Telegram opinion columnist. In a 54-year Texas newspaper career, he has covered two Super Bowls, a presidential inauguration, seven national political conventions and 19 Texas Legislature sessions.. Support my work with a digital subscription
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