Eats Beat

What’s up at Saint-Émilion? (It’s open, but there’s a story)

The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion, newly reopened on West Seventh Street.
The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion, newly reopened on West Seventh Street. bud@star-telegram.com

Hey, Bud! I drove past Saint-Émilion Restaurant the other night and it looked full. I thought you said it moved?

—Rebecca, Fort Worth

It did. The fine-dining French restaurant known for 34 years as Saint-Émilion moved three blocks east and is now named Paris 7th. A new, more casual Saint-Émilion is now open at 3617 W. Seventh St., serving family-style coq au vin or ribeye steak and frites for two, plus entrees such as mussels, Basque chicken and a branzino-shrimp combo. There are $5 wines by the glass and more of a bistro atmosphere.

Hey. Bud! What happened to Aguilera’s Cafe?

—Rodney, Fort Worth

Santos Aguilera turned 91 the other day. He’s retired, and the little unmarked cafe at 2005 N. Grove St. won’t reopen. (Earlier this year, Virgie Martinez of Mi Cocinita retired, and Granny’s Tacos on Long Avenue closed. We are looking for the next great secret, hole-in-the-wall cafe.)


Eats Beat Ep. 137

Our first Piecast!


Hey, Bud! We have to drive to Bastrop and then Seguin. Looking for the best BBQ along the way to take to Mama.

—Cheryl, Fort Worth

Sounds like you’ll pass Louie Mueller’s Barbecue in Taylor. Mueller’s is the most consistent top-3 barbecue restaurant in Texas, and family members also opened other top restaurants. (The late pitmaster, Bobby Mueller, was in the TCU class of 1961.)

Related stories from Fort Worth Star Telegram

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 16 Texas Legislature sessions. First on the scene of a 1988 DFW Airport crash, he interviewed passengers running from the burning plane. He made his first appearance in the paper before he was born: He was sold for $600 in the adoption classifieds.

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