Eats Beat

This tiny cafe near Dallas Cowboys games serves unlimited enchiladas. Or try breakfast

When times get tough, it’s time for Bigotes.

The tiny, traditional Tex-Mex restaurant 1 mile south of Dallas Cowboys games and AT&T Stadium has been bargain-hunters’ favorite stop for 36 years.

Bigotes, 1821 E. Abram St. in east Arlington, serves all the simple cheese enchiladas and crispy tacos you can eat, and for an unbelievable price: less than $14 at lunch daily and at dinner Fridays and Saturdays.

It’s also one of central Arlington’s favorite stops for old-school Tex-Mex breakfast, similar to Paula’s on West Arkansas Lane.

One recent morning, the chilaquiles verdes with eggs were spicy, and Bigotes was packed for the Zavala family’s menudo and Laredo-style breakfast tacos.

Music played as the lights twinkled on a small Christmas tree set up in a corner booth, in front of the TV tuned at that moment to Houston pastor Joel Osteen’s sermon.

Chilaquiles verdes with eggs. potatoes, beans and a pancake at Bigotes Mexican Restaurant in Arlington, Dec. 1, 2024.
Chilaquiles verdes with eggs. potatoes, beans and a pancake at Bigotes Mexican Restaurant in Arlington, Dec. 1, 2024. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Families gathered around the big tables covered year-round with Christmas tablecloths.

Some were dining on carne guisada tacos, others on huevos rancheros with spicy sauce, most with aguas frescas or tall Coca-Colas imported from Mexico.

The flour tacos are called “mariachis” here, a Laredo term that refers to either to (1) the spicy flavor that makes customers shout like mariachis, or (2) the dish’s popularity with musicians dining in the wee hours.

The chilaquiles con huevos ($11 with home fries and beans) come in red or green, but the spicy green sauce is the more popular.

The all-you-can-eat lunch and weekend dinner at Bigotes in Arlington, seen Sept. 30, 2019, starts with two enchiladas and two tacos. That’s only the beginning.
The all-you-can-eat lunch and weekend dinner at Bigotes in Arlington, seen Sept. 30, 2019, starts with two enchiladas and two tacos. That’s only the beginning. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Bigotes opens at 8 a.m. daily to serve a choice of 12 breakfasts, then makes an early changeover to the enchiladas-and-tacos lunches.

Yes, there are other dishes, including fajitas, chiles rellenos, grilled fish or tacos al pastor.

As an online review at TripAdvisor.com warns, “This place is not for Dallas-type people.”

Bigotes’ phone is 817-274-1350; bigotesarlington.com.

If you need breakfast earlier or want a sweet dessert, Marquez Bakery is a few blocks away at 1730 E. Division St.; 817-265-8858, marquezbakery.com.

Bigotes Mexican Restaurant is a tiny cafe in east Arlington, seen Dec. 1, 2024.
Bigotes Mexican Restaurant is a tiny cafe in east Arlington, seen Dec. 1, 2024. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published December 2, 2024 at 5:30 AM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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