Why Stewart’s in Fort Worth is a cool new spot for cocktails, and weekend lunch too
Chef Tim Love’s new cocktail bar and croquet club is a complete surprise.
First of all, I never imagined anyone in Fort Worth, Texas opening a croquet club.
And I definitely never imagined such a cool vibe.
Frankly, forget the croquet court. Stewart’s, 4424 White Settlement Road, has a cozy, swanky little bar and dining room that feels like a private club, and that’s where you want to sit.
The menu is underpromoted and understated. But I can see going back for a quiet, elegant weekend lunch of a smashburger, a croque monsieur or a Lonesome Dove chili-and-cheddar dog.
Yes, there’s black or platinum caviar, if you want to live it up club-style.
But my budget runs more to the chili dog.
Caviar, chili dogs and croquet
But the fact is that either caviar diners or chili dog customers can have a good time in this tiny hangout with low ceilings, big sofas and the atmosphere of a secret speakeasy from Fort Worth’s high-rolling past.
It’s as if the long-gone Rangoon Racquet Club opened a Rangoon Croquet Club.
The sign out front actually says “1930” even though the bar just opened.
I’m just guessing here, but I imagine that’s because it’s named for Love’s late father and the guy who taught him croquet, Stewart Love (1930-2015).
The restaurant replaces the former George’s Cash & Carry convenience store and Mediterranean import grocery.
New traditions for a familiar roadside stop
The 70-year-old landmark used to be a primary stop for drivers headed northwest to luxury homes on Lake Worth.
The bar seats 28 people. Just grab one of the five barstools. Or commandeer one of the eight patio or lawn tables.
If it’s too busy, a Love Italian restaurant, Gemelle, is next door.
To add to the English-club shtick, that chili dog, caviar or club sandwich is served on a silver serving tray with a glass cloche.
Then go out and swing a mallet. But be careful if you’ve had a few Pimm’s cups.
Stewart’s is open for dinner nightly and has been busy. But on weekends, it opens at 11 a.m. Friday and 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday for lunch; 817-214-4500, stewartscocktailclub.com.
