Where’s the best fried catfish? North Texas’ favorite has a Louisiana challenger
The Great Catfish Battle of West Division Street has begun.
Catfish Sam’s, one of two historic Arlington restaurants on a century-old highway between Fort Worth and Dallas, is up against a new challenger from Louisiana with a simple take-out stand but low prices and lots of flavor.
Three blocks separate Catfish Sam’s, 2735 W. Division St., and Captain LA Fish Chicken and More, 2424 W. Division St.
Sam’s has been open since 1952, first as a Tex-Mex restaurant and steakhouse out in what was then called “rabbit town” on the rural far western edge of Arlington.
It added Sam’s Catfish Barge part-time in 1971 and switched completely to Catfish Sam’s in 1991.
Captain LA has been open 12 years in Bossier City, Louisiana, 210 miles east on that same old coast-to-coast highway.
It’s new in Arlington, taking over a former plate-lunch cafe and Mediterranean restaurant. But it has made a fast following for generous $10 combination seafood lunches, $18 dinners and chicken tenders, po’boys, gyros and Philly cheesesteaks.
Catfish Sam’s: a Texas landmark for catfish, green tomato relish
Catfish Sam’s is the kind of place your parents used to take you. And their parents probably took them.
The parking lot was full of pickups on a recent Saturday night. The sound system was playing Eric Clapton singing “You look wonderful tonight” in the old-fashioned dining room.
Arched booths line the walls,. They’re not quite as cozy as at the equally historic Candlelite Inn across town, and the light’s brighter, but the atmosphere is convivial.
Catfish Sam’s is all about fried and broiled seafood, although the hamburger steak and chicken-fried steak also have their fans.
The menu lists 10 catfish dinners for $11.95-$21.95, most with the must-have green tomato relish, house-recipe pintos, coleslaw, a fluffy yeast roll and a choice of fries, baked potato or baked sweet potato.
This is classic Southern cooking with recipes from the founding Lester family’s Gainesville ancestors.
Try a “Slap Yo’ Mama” spicy fried catfish strips dinner or broiled catfish platter and ask for a baked sweet potato ($17.95-$18.95).
Desserts include Butterfinger pie, lemon or lime ice-box pie, sweet-potato pie or peach cobbler.
Warning: You may want extra yeast rolls and a jar of the green tomato relish to go.
Catfish Sam’s is open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Fridays, and for dinner Saturdays; 817-275-9631, catfishsams.com.
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Captain LA: a Louisiana import with seafood, chicken and Phillys
Captain LA Fish Chicken and More is nothing like Catfish Sam’s. It’s a bright takeout counter with a few tables and food served in foam to-go plates.
But the fisherman’s platters with fish, oysters and jumbo or stuffed shrimp cost less than $20, and they’re big enough to split.
For example, Captain LA’s idea of a single dinner is four fried catfish fillets and four jumbo shrimp.
Grilled catfish, shrimp and chicken are served over rice for less than $15, or a grilled combination plate is less than $17.
A family can split a 12-piece fried catfish dinner with fries for less than $25 or a 20-piece catfish and shrimp or chicken dinner with fries for less than $40.
The sides include the usual slaw, beans and salad plus a stellar dirty rice, green beans, corn or hush puppies.
Captain LA also has a fast following on social media for the gyros, cheesesteaks and po’boys, all in either beef or chicken.
Desserts include a choice of cakes such as honey bun, German chocolate, cookies-and-cream or Arlington’s traditional favorite cake, red velvet.
Captain LA is open from 10 a.m. for lunch and dinner daily; 682-248-3896, instagram.com/captainlafishchick.
This story was originally published April 21, 2025 at 5:30 AM.
