Eats Beat

Where the peppers are hot and the temps are cooler: Why Texans love green chile season

New Mexico Hatch green chile season reaches peak heat Labor Day weekend.

In the chile peppers’ home along the Rio Grande in southern New Mexico, it’s time for the original Hatch Chile Festival, drawing crowds Sept. 1-3 for chile eating contests and the coronation of the Chile Queen.

If that sounds tempting, the valley is about 10 degrees cooler than North Texas. It’s also 3,500 feet higher and drier.

In Texas supermarkets and restaurants, this week’s deliveries should bring the most flavorful chiles of the season as the crop reaches its peak.

Growers actually stopped the harvest for five days this year to let heat-stressed plants catch up, according to an owner quoted in the El Paso Times.

Chiles for sale at a Hatch, New Mexico roadside stand.
Chiles for sale at a Hatch, New Mexico roadside stand. Amy Culbertson Star-Telegram archives

About 45% of the crop was in by mid-August, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

It might seem like Central Market, H-E-B and Whataburger by themselves use all the Hatch chile in New Mexico, but some restaurants also serve specials.

The peppers’ popularity has driven prices up and some restaurants out of serving Hatch specials, including the Austin-based Chuy’s chain, former longstanding Hatchaholics.

The local Blue Mesa Grill and Houston-based Pappasito’s Cantina restaurants have been offering a Hatch chile festival just as long as Chuy’s. Both are still at it along with Dallas-based Blue Goose Cantina.

Hatch green chile stew as seen in 2023 at Blue Goose Cantina restaurants.
Hatch green chile stew as seen in 2023 at Blue Goose Cantina restaurants. Peterson Management Group Handout photo

Blue Goose predicts hotter chiles

”We believe they will be spicy due to the warmer weather this year,” Blue Goose’s Augie Arellano said in a forwarded message.

Blue Goose is also serving blueberry-Hatch margaritas. Arelleno said he expects to have the fresh chiles through mid-September.

Look for Blue Goose Cantina locations at 1612 S. University Drive in University Park Village (817-386-5433), 2536 Interstate 20 West in Grand Prairie (469-909-2583) or 2455 E. Grapevine Mills Circle (817-251-3303).

Other locations are in Frisco, Highland Village, McKinney and Plano; bluegoosecantina.com.

A creamy Hatch green chile platter Nov. 19, 2016, at Enchiladas Ole.
A creamy Hatch green chile platter Nov. 19, 2016, at Enchiladas Ole. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com


Enchiladas Olé serves 6 tons of Hatch chiles

Mary Patino Vásquez of the popular local Enchiladas Olé restaurants serves Hatch specials year-round.

Her order this year is more than 6 tons. For comparison, the much larger Mí Día From Scratch restaurants in Grapevine, Plano and Flower Mound will roast 5 tons.

“Our No. 1 sellers all year are the Hatch chile plates!” Vásquez wrote in an online message.

She used to make the 10-hour drive to Hatch more than once every August to stock enough chiles. Now, several truckloads are delivered by food suppliers.

It’s tougher for chain restaurants to have a limited-time special that may only last a few weeks, she said. Hatch prices are up. And it’s simply too hot in some kitchens to have workers spend hours roasting peppers.

Enchiladas Olé specializes in cheese, chicken, beef, brisket or veggie enchiladas with artisan sauces, including both a creamy Hatch green chile and a red Santa Fe chile.

Enchiladas Olé is open for lunch and dinner daily except Sunday at 2418 Forest Park Blvd. (817-984-1360) or 9006 North Tarrant Parkway, North Richland Hills (817-849-2451); enchiladasole.com

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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