Eats Beat

West Side Cafe sold to longtime manager, joins successful Fort Worth restaurant lineup

The popular West Side Cafe, which had faced an uncertain future since its founder’s death, has been sold to a longtime manager and will continue with support from successful neighbor JD’s Hamburgers, the partners announced Tuesday.

West Side Cafe, a breakfast and lunch diner that opened in 1996 and feels even older, has made lists for the “Best Chicken-Fried Steaks in Texas.”

The cafe, 7950 Camp Bowie Blvd. West, consistently draws lines for breakfasts and plate lunches with a wide choice of vegetables.

It’s also known for its wall displays honoring the Western Hills and north Benbrook neighborhoods’ military and defense tradition.

A mural by artist Matt Cliff decorates the wall at West Side Cafe.
A mural by artist Matt Cliff decorates the wall at West Side Cafe. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

A 20-year general manager, Joel Hancock, has bought the restaurant from the family of late founder Tracey Sanford.

Hancock will run the cafe with support from business and marketing partners Bourke Harvey and Gigi Howell of nearby smash-hit JD”s Hamburgers.

Harvey and Howell also partnered to buy Margie’s Italian Kitchen, a 70-year-old postwar pasta restaurant and roadside-Americana landmark on Camp Bowie West.

Oatmeal cafe is among the traditional desserts at West Side Cafe in Fort Worth.
Oatmeal cafe is among the traditional desserts at West Side Cafe in Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Harvey is also the founder of Curly’s Frozen Custard and a partner in Rogers Roundhouse, a burger grill.

The partners’ announcement promised the same pancakes, chicken-and-dumplings and senior specials as always, now also available via delivery services.

West Side Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch daily; 817-560-1996, fortworthwestsidecafe.com.

JD’s Hamburgers, 9901 Camp Bowie Blvd. West, recently resumed lunch and dinner service Wednesdays through Saturdays and lunch Sundays after months of building repairs.

In 2015, actor Burton Gilliam visited when West Side Cafe was chosen as one of four restaurants to showcase Texas Chicken-Fried Steak Day,
In 2015, actor Burton Gilliam visited when West Side Cafe was chosen as one of four restaurants to showcase Texas Chicken-Fried Steak Day, Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published August 16, 2023 at 10:12 AM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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