Eats Beat

There’s a new brunch in Fort Worth’s 92-year-old train station. Don’t miss this stop

In a city infatuated with brunch, the next No. 1 is often the newest.

Right now, the newest is at T & P Tavern, the 92-year-old grand downtown Fort Worth railway station with a vintage coffee shop that still looks like it did in November 1931.

It’s the city’s fifth oldest restaurant still in the same location, behind the Hilton Fort Worth hotel cafe (1921), the Paris Coffee Shop (1926), Riscky’s Bar-B-Q (1927) and Bailey’s Bar-B-Que (May 1931),

The decor at T & P Tavern, 221 W. Lancaster Ave., retains the original ornate ceilings and majestic chandeliers.

Funnel cake with berries, granola and lemon cream is on the Sunday brunch menu at T & P Tavern, inside the historic downtown Fort Worth railway station now serving the Trinity Railway Express.
Funnel cake with berries, granola and lemon cream is on the Sunday brunch menu at T & P Tavern, inside the historic downtown Fort Worth railway station now serving the Trinity Railway Express. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

But the brunch is new.

Sunday’s menu at the station — now home to TEXRail and the Trinity Railway Express — includes breakfast platters, biscuits and huevos rancheros with carnitas and a New Mexico-style creamy green chile sauce.

There’s also a State Fair-style funnel cake with berries and lemon cream.

So brunch at T & P Tavern a perfect way to get in shape for funnel cake season, also known as the State Fair of Texas.

The T & P Tavern restaurant, seen August 6, 2023, is in the old 1931 Fort Worth railroad station coffee shop and dining counter.
The T & P Tavern restaurant, seen August 6, 2023, is in the old 1931 Fort Worth railroad station coffee shop and dining counter. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The tavern menu also includes less traditional brunches such as loaded tater tots covered in scrambled eggs, sausage, queso, bacon bits., sour cream, chives and the New Mexico creamy green chile on request.

Brunch is available Sundays from 11 a.m. until midafternoon.

The regular menu served at dinner daily except Mondays includes basic tavern fare — pizzas, nachos, quesadillas and sandwiches including a highly regarded chicken salad croissant or a turkey sandwich with Hatch green chiles.

T&P Tavern is in the original 1931 train station cafe.
T&P Tavern is in the original 1931 train station cafe. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The crowd includes weekend lunch patrons from the Fort Worth Convention Center.. At night, the regulars include residents of the T & P Lofts apartments next door along with travelers going to or from Grapevine, DFW Airport or Dallas.

One note: T & P Tavern is not easy to find.

Park in the Trinity Railway Express lot, 200 W. Vickery Blvd., and walk through the tunnel.

Or park in front on West Lancaster Avenue and walk across the parking lot to the driveway east of the Texas & Pacific Passenger Terminal building, adjacent to the newer condos next door..

T & P Tavern is down a driveway at the east end of the historic T & P Railway station concourse, as seen August 6, 2023.
T & P Tavern is down a driveway at the east end of the historic T & P Railway station concourse, as seen August 6, 2023. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Follow the signs to “Rail Station.”

There’s a T & P Tavern sign on the building, and a sign at the end of the driveway with an arrow: “T & P Tavern This Way”; 817-885-8878, tptavern.com.

In the waning days of Texas & Pacific Railway travel, B.T. and Becky Balcom with their three daughters, Holly, Sally, and Linda, walk through the empty terminal on way to board a train May 31, 1969.
In the waning days of Texas & Pacific Railway travel, B.T. and Becky Balcom with their three daughters, Holly, Sally, and Linda, walk through the empty terminal on way to board a train May 31, 1969. Fort Worth Star-Telegram Collection UT Arlington Library Special Collections

This story was originally published August 7, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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