Eats Beat

A roadside Marilyn Monroe near Fort Worth has a new owner. Hope she likes brisket

Usually a new Dickey’s Barbecue Pit would not make news.

But none of the more than 500 locations of the worldwide Dallas-based Dickey’s chain will be like the one coming to Haltom City.

A 1950s-style diner that has been a Denton Highway landmark since 1987 is in the process of changing the first Dickey’s to serve morning breakfast daily and homestyle sides along with the franchise chain’s familiar fast-service barbecue.

New owner Felinda Jarmon plans to turn The Café in Haltom City, still open at 3113 Denton Highway, into a future Dickey’s. But she’ll also keep morning breakfasts and add sides such as collard greens or ham hock and black-eyed peas.

A Marilyn Monroe statue and another of a police officer are staying atop The Cafe in Haltom City, but the restaurant is changing to a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit with a larger menu and longer hours.
A Marilyn Monroe statue and another of a police officer are staying atop The Cafe in Haltom City, but the restaurant is changing to a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit with a larger menu and longer hours. Ian McVea Star-Telegram archives

There’s already talk around town.

“There’s been so much confusion about this, it’s just unreal,” Jarmon said.

It will be Dickey’s “but with a twist,” she said.

The location just north of East Belknap Street has a colorful history dating back 64 years, back to when northbound traffic to Denton and Oklahoma traveled Denton Highway before the construction of Interstate 35W.

Statues of Marilyn Monroe and a police officer rest atop The Cafe in Haltom City, changing to a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit.
Statues of Marilyn Monroe and a police officer rest atop The Cafe in Haltom City, changing to a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit. Laurie L. Ward Star-Telegram archives

A location of Fort Worth’s legendary Griddle Systems diners opened there in 1959. The Haltom Plaza shopping center behind it was built in 1964, and by 1974 the restaurant had changed to a Beefeater plate-lunch cafe, later renamed Beef Chef.

The Café took over the space in 1987, with a pink-flamingo-tropical-blue paint scheme outside in the era of TV’s “Miami Vice” and a chromed 1950s look inside.

It was the second location of a now-gone Café in north Arlington. That location spun off and became Bobby V’s.

The building is remarkable for the 120-pound statues of Marilyn Monroe and a police-officer bodyguard on top, a purchase by former owner Mike Schroder.

“Marilyn and the policeman will stay,” Jarmon said.

The building will be repainted in Dickey’s familiar bright yellow.

Ribs, brisket, cheddar sausage, turkey, okra, potato casserole and mac-and-cheese at Dickey’s.
Ribs, brisket, cheddar sausage, turkey, okra, potato casserole and mac-and-cheese at Dickey’s. Allen Pierleoni Handout photo

“There is no barbecue around here right now,” she said. “You have to go to Fort Worth or somewhere.”

The neighborhood’s craft barbecue devotees go to The Patriotic Pig in North Richland Hills. The traditional favorite remains 77-year-old Sammies Bar-B-Q, just across the Fort Worth city limit at 3801 E. Belknap St.

Dickey’s chain counter-service restaurants aren’t really competition for those restaurants

But Dickey’s offers corporate features such as family packs, online ordering and a rewards program.

Jarmon said she likes Dickey’s smoked Polish sausage or chicken breast, along with the brisket.

She will add local desserts such as sweet potato pie.

“It’ll become more than just a diner,” she said.

For now, The Café remains open for breakfast and lunch daily; 817-838-6709.

This story was originally published June 14, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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