Eats Beat

Popular gourmet deli-takeout shop expands in west Fort Worth; TCU store closing

Lettuce Cook, a grab-and-go shop that has become an anchor in the growing River District, will expand service at that location but will close a TCU-area shop, co-owner Natalie Brown said.

The River District has grown by more than 1,000 residents since Lettuce Cook opened in 2016 at 5101 White Settlement Road.

Back then, Lettuce Cook was the newbie on a sleepy street of 1940s tire shops and resale stores.

Kale salad and salmon at Lettuce Cook.
Kale salad and salmon at Lettuce Cook. Paul Moseley Star-Telegram archives

Now, it’s a reliable standard on a flashy new strip with a Heim Barbecue, the relocated Salsa Limón diner from the Cultural District and more restaurants yet to come.

Lettuce Cook quickly built a reputation for casseroles, family meals, sandwiches and baked goods, including turkey meatloaf, white-truffle mac-and-cheese, a honey-rosemary steak sandwich and a grilled cheese sandwich with tart cherry spread.

The Lettuce Cook location in the River District.
The Lettuce Cook location in the River District. Paul Moseley Star-Telegram archives

In 2020, Brown and husband Todd Brown added a second location at 3522 Blue Bonnet Circle near TCU.

That store will close June 15. The shortage of staff and high food costs led the Browns to focus on the original location, Natalie Brown said.

Demand in the River District is growing rapidly.

Prepared dishes, fresh and ready to go at Lettuce Cook.
Prepared dishes, fresh and ready to go at Lettuce Cook. Paul Moseley Star-Telegram archives

The addition of several apartment complexes, the growth of far west Fort Worth and the reopening of the White Settlement Road bridge near downtown have all brought new diners.

Despite the general shortage of help, the Browns strained to keep both locations going.

But “we had to ultimately make a decision for our children and our overall quality of life,” Natalie Brown wrote in a letter to customers.

A honey-rosemary flank steak with caramelized onions, roasted peppers and goat cheese at Lettuce Cook.
A honey-rosemary flank steak with caramelized onions, roasted peppers and goat cheese at Lettuce Cook. Paul Moseley Star-Telegram archives

Regular menu favorites include Hatch chile breakfast burritos, avocado toast, a raspberry-chipotle pulled pork sandwich, an artichoke-spinach-sun-dried-tomato sandwich and an “off-the-Waldorf” salad.

Lettuce Cook is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily except Sundays; 817-989-2665, lettucecookgourmet.com.

The stocked takeout case at Lettuce Cook.
The stocked takeout case at Lettuce Cook. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published May 30, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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