Eats Beat

Here are the Fort Worth-area restaurants that closed in the first half of 2021

Urban Alchemy Coffee and Wine Bar in downtown Arlington, about a mile and a half from AT&T Stadium
Urban Alchemy Coffee and Wine Bar in downtown Arlington, about a mile and a half from AT&T Stadium Star-Telegram archives

Only a handful of high-profile restaurants closed in the first half of 2021, amazing in a year of a pandemic, high food prices and a national labor shortage.

Two closings in Southlake lead the short list of major closings through July 1, with more than 20 major openings so far and another dozen to come.

A look at the departures halfway through the year:

Restaurant swap in Southlake

Southlake is trading flashy Chinese and Tex-Mex restaurants for one, even more flashy Tex-Mex restaurant.

Howard Wang’s China Grill, an upscale Chinese restaurant and bar from Dallas, closed its Shops of Southlake location June 27.

“As hard as we’ve tried, we have not been able to overcome the economic reality of the pandemic,” was the Facebook page message, saying the restaurant was “challenged with the public-safety, financial strain, and emotional impact.”

Mesero, a Tex-Mex restaurant with a busy bar and patio at other locations, immediately announced a new location in the former Howard Wang’s space, 1471 E. Southlake Blvd.

Next door, Herencia also closed. Founded by former Uncle Julio’s partners, Herencia had a loyal following but not the family-run appeal of Southlake favorites such as Manny’s Tex Mex and Anamia’s.

Chef Ben Merritt closed Ben’’s Triple B in east Fort Worth.
Chef Ben Merritt closed Ben’’s Triple B in east Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Biscuits and burgers, but no help

In Fort Worth, contest-winning chef Ben Merritt pulled the plug May 25 on his Ben’s Triple B Biscuits, Burgers & Brews, part of the Rosedale Renaissance development near Texas Wesleyan University.

Merritt said the primary reason was the labor shortage. Five employees were leaving Fort Worth at the end of the spring semester.

Some former restaurant workers have chosen to remain home as the pandemic fluctuates. More are working other jobs where they are not as exposed to co-workers and the public. The reduction in U.S. immigration the last four years has left restaurants desperate for new help.

Ben’s Triple B opened featuring burgers on Merritt’s giant, smooth biscuits, but it shifted along with customer demand to a menu of first-rate chicken biscuit sandwiches.

Merritt, a 2019 winner on TV’s “Chopped,” continues his flagship restaurant, Fixture, 401 W. Magnolia Ave.

Chicken-fried steak on a biscuit with chili and queso at Ben’s Triple B.
Chicken-fried steak on a biscuit with chili and queso at Ben’s Triple B. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Changes in Arlington, new and old

One of the pioneers around Arlington’s Urban Union development, Urban Alchemy, switched June 20 from a downtown coffee-and-wine bar to a rental hall.

Owner Tony Rutigliano posted on Facebook that the shop has hosted so many weddings, parties, workshops and retreats in the last three years, he is going into that business along with programming a series of events.

Also in Arlington: The city’s last old-time cafeteria, Furr’s, closed after a short life as an “AYCE [all you can eat] Marketplace.”

(A nearby Luby’s in Forest Hill remains open under a new owner, and Luby’s locations in Fort Worth continue pending any sale.)

Biscuits at Urban Alchemy in Arlington came from Sugar Bee Bakery.
Biscuits at Urban Alchemy in Arlington came from Sugar Bee Bakery. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Chicken-fried steaks, barbecue

One of the oldest restaurants in North Richland Hills, Sandy’s Real Chicken Fried Steaks, closed after 28 years when the owners retired.

In Fort Worth, Smokey’s BBQ opened as a food truck but closed its restaurant after 41 years at 5300 E. Lancaster Ave.

On the booming Near Southside, Le’s Wok closed due to family illness and Tulips, a bar, ended its sandwich menu.

In west Fort Worth, The Dive Burger Bar closed but continued burgers as an occasional special at Oscar’s Pub in Ridglea.

Blu Crab Seafood moved to 4843 Colleyville Blvd. in Colleyville.

The Pennsylvania-based Crab du Jour chain closed a short-lived Cityview location.

This story was originally published July 19, 2021 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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