Eats Beat

East side barbecue landmark, south side deli closed in Fort Worth

Sausage, spareribs, smoked chicken breast and brisket at Smokey’s BBQ in Fort Worth.
Sausage, spareribs, smoked chicken breast and brisket at Smokey’s BBQ in Fort Worth. bud@star-telegram.com

One of Fort Worth’s oldest barbecue restaurants closed Tuesday, along with a new sandwich shop known for smoked-chicken salad.

In east Fort Worth, Smokey’s BBQ closed after 41 years, the last 13 under owner Paul Calhoun.

“We are sad to inform you that as of Tuesday June 29th Smokeys BBQ has closed its doors,” was the message posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page: “ ... It is time for our next adventure to start.”

Sales had declined, he said in a text message. The location is for lease.

Smokey’s will continue as a caterer and do pop-ups, he said.

Smokey’s has been a landmark since 1980 at 5300 E. Lancaster Ave., in a building that was originally a Dairy Queen. In the 1980s, it was a favorite for pork ribs, along with a cousin restaurant in Arlington, Gaylen’s.

The restaurant thrived last year during the pandemic thanks to its drive-thru window, but also saw more competition followed by the rising cost of suddenly scarce briskets. A few days ago, the restaurant Facebook page posted that “only one brisket came in today for tomorrow. So guess it will be a quick day.”

In December, Calhoun said more than half his business was at the drive-thru.

Another east side barbecue favorite, Lady and The Pit, just reopened at a new location across the street at 5301 E. Lancaster Ave.

Tulips ends deli service

In south Fort Worth, a bar that added sandwiches during the pandemic has switched back to just a bar, meaning Fort Worth has one less stop for smoked-chicken salad.

Tulips, a club and concert venue at 112 St. Louis Ave., has ended deli service as it restores a full calendar of music shows.

Tulips was featured in a Texas Monthly roundup on Fort Worth’s obsession with smoked-chicken salad, along with the popular Carpenter’s Cafe, Smoke-A-Holics and Lady & the Pit.

The club plans to have a food vendor at shows and will have Salsa Limon tacos at its official grand (re-)opening July 30, according to a spokesperson.

This story was originally published June 30, 2021 at 4:08 PM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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