Eats Beat

A suburban Fort Worth steakhouse goes dark. It’ll reopen in 2021 after COVID-19

Ranchman’s Ponder Steakhouse, a Denton County landmark for 72 years, has gone dark due to the coronavirus pandemic until “2020 is in the rear view mirror,” owner Dave Ross announced Tuesday.

In a letter posted on Facebook and the Ranchman’s website, Ross wrote that “two months of no sales and three months of losses prevent continuing under current conditions,” but added, “The legend will not stop here.”

The restaurant will continue web sales of barbecue rub, raw local honey, soaps, T-shirts, hats and masks at ranchman.com, Ross wrote.

In a Facebook post, Ross wrote: “We are looking forward to seeing you when this is over.”

Ranchman’s had reopened June 3 for outdoor, curbside and takeout dining only, but was not able to serve its “sizzlin’” steaks and never reopened the dining room.

At the time, Ross said Ranchman’s old small-town cafe setting is too small and narrow to allow the safe 6-foot distancing between diners required to open under state health orders to prevent the spread of COVID-19.

A strawberry rhubarb pie at Ranchman’s in Ponder.
A strawberry rhubarb pie at Ranchman’s in Ponder. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Instead of steaks, Ranchman’s sold cheeseburgers, chicken-fried steaks, chicken filets and tenders, plus daily plate lunches, meat loaf, roast pork, smoked chicken and ham.

The restaurant also sold its popular pies and cobblers.

Ross’ letter began by announcing “good news” that the restaurant’s garden will produce a “bountiful harvest” for serving next year and that a subtle remodeling has been finished, adding a new pie case and remodeled counter.

Then he went into the “bad news”: “Ranchman’s is joining the 60% of restaurants nationwide that have closed. ... This situation is an unconceivable hurdle that my 46 years’ experience in the food service industry cannot be overcome until it goes away.”

Photos line the walls of Ranchman’s, some from the 1967 movie “Bonnie and Clyde,” shot nearby.
Photos line the walls of Ranchman’s, some from the 1967 movie “Bonnie and Clyde,” shot nearby. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Ranchman’s has saved a reserve fund for reopening, he wrote.

“Ranchman’s made its mark as a legend under “Pete” Jackson for Texas down home cooking,” he wrote. “We took that great reputation and ran with it, expanding on scratch, fresh, safe food and happy friendly service. ... We cannot wait to resume the “dance” of staff whirling around providing excellent food.”

In June, Ross talked about the pushback he was getting from customers because he obeyed state health orders,

One told him to “man up, wash my hands and open,” he said then.

“We want and need to sell our food, but when we tell them that it is takeout or curbside they leave.”

This story was originally published September 15, 2020 at 11:54 PM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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