A classic Texas cafe says ‘come back’ with prime rib for Dad, takeout pies, cobblers
One of Texas’ legacy restaurants has a new look.
But you can’t tell yet.
Ranchman’s Ponder Steakhouse has been a Denton County landmark for 72 years at 110 W. Bailey St.
It has a new counter and a new dining room ceiling for the rustic, small-town chicken-fried steak cafe.
But right now, it only serves takeout lunch or dinner.
That includes a $15.95 takeout prime rib dinner Father’s Day. (You must reserve by Friday.)
The restaurant north of Fort Worth is known as a hangout for everyone from actor John Wayne to NASCAR driver A.J. Foyt. But it’s been through a “scary time,” owner Dave Ross said.
He’s stuck with takeout sales only, because the cafe is too small and narrow for safe social distancing.
Even before bars reopened and caused a new spike in cases, Ranchman’s was upholding healthy and safe restaurant standards, because some workers and regulars are over age 65 or caring for the elderly or at-risk.
But a few customers are obnoxious about it.
One told him to “man up, wash my hands and open the damn restaurant,” Ross said.
Another couple insisted restaurants were “mandated” to open. Then they went through the cafe touching everything and every workers within reach, he said.
He saw what happened in San Marcos and New Braunfels since Memorial Day, where several restaurants had to close for sanitizing after crowds of river rafters hit town.
(Several Houston restaurants also had to close. Local restaurant workers and at least one owner have come down sick.)
Ross said Ranchman’s has invested in changes to follow the Texas Restaurant Association “Texas Promise,” the best-practices industry standards.
“A steady stream of customers is calling, driving by and coming in, wanting to dine in,” Ross said.
“We want and need to sell our food, but when we tell them that it is takeout or curbside they leave.”
So far, the menu doesn’t include rib-eyes or T-bones, because “sizzlin’” steaks don’t quite work as takeout.
Instead, choose from the homestyle chicken-fried steaks, burgers or chicken filets and tenders, plus plate lunches and family-pack meals such as meat loaf, roast pork, smoked chicken or ham ($12.95).
There’s also a takeout family meal for four people for $39.95 including a cobbler, or a meal for six for $59.95.
Cheeseburgers are now the No. 1 order.
But the chicken-fried steaks — made from scratch using heavily pounded round steak — remain customers’ favorite. They come either as a dinner plate with veggies or as a family meal.
Ranchman’s is open for lunch and dinner Wednesdays through Sundays; 940-479-2221, ranchman.com.
This story was originally published June 17, 2020 at 5:45 AM.
