Eats Beat

At Enchiladas Ole, a cheesesteak with brisket and a ’10 best’ queso

The “cowboy cheesesteak” at Enchiladas Ole is made with smoked brisket and white-cheddar queso.
The “cowboy cheesesteak” at Enchiladas Ole is made with smoked brisket and white-cheddar queso.

What’s Texas’ version of a Philly cheesesteak?

Enchiladas Ole came up with the answer:

It’s loaded with:

Smoked brisket,

Grilled onions,

And lots of queso.

The tiny Fort Worth restaurant, voted one of the 10 best Tex-Mex restaurants in Texas in a USA Today poll, has added cheesesteaks as a “secret menu” item.

“I was in Philadelphia at Pat’s [Pat’s King of Steaks], this famous old cheesesteak restaurant, and I wondered, how can I do this in Texas?” owner Mary Patino Perez said.

She already smokes her own brisket for enchiladas, tacos and salads.

In Philly, they make steak sandwiches with provolone. (Or Cheez Whiz.)

“I thought, why not make it with my queso?” Perez said.

Instead of a Philly cheesesteak, call it a Cowboys cheesesteak.

It’s made with brisket, jalapeno queso and grilled onions, piled high on fresh bread from nearby Guanajuato Bakery.

On the side, Ole serves hand-cut french fries.

(Not just fresh-cut. They’re actually hand-cut.)

It might be as good as Swiss Pastry Shop’s popular “Fort Worth cheesesteak,” with two advantages: (1) brisket and (2) those fries.

If you haven’t tried it, Enchiladas Ole is known for enchiladas, sauces and toppings. The ancho-chile sauce or the Hatch verde sauce are complicated and craft-style.

Ole’s spicy white-cheddar queso has also been ranked one of the 10 best in Texas (by Austin-based Wide Open Eats).

A brisket taco and a “street” chicken enchilada at Enchiladas Ole. Bud Kennedy

Enchiladas Ole’s Sylvania location is open for lunch daily except Sunday, and for dinner Thursday through Saturday; 817-984-1360,

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Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.