Eats Beat

At Enchiladas Ole, a cheesesteak with brisket and a ’10 best’ queso

The “cowboy cheesesteak” at Enchiladas Ole is made with smoked brisket and white-cheddar queso.
The “cowboy cheesesteak” at Enchiladas Ole is made with smoked brisket and white-cheddar queso. bud@star-telegram.com

What’s Texas’ version of a Philly cheesesteak?

Enchiladas Ole came up with the answer:

It’s loaded with:

Smoked brisket,

Grilled onions,

And lots of queso.

The tiny Fort Worth restaurant, voted one of the 10 best Tex-Mex restaurants in Texas in a USA Today poll, has added cheesesteaks as a “secret menu” item.

“I was in Philadelphia at Pat’s [Pat’s King of Steaks], this famous old cheesesteak restaurant, and I wondered, how can I do this in Texas?” owner Mary Patino Perez said.

She already smokes her own brisket for enchiladas, tacos and salads.

In Philly, they make steak sandwiches with provolone. (Or Cheez Whiz.)

“I thought, why not make it with my queso?” Perez said.

Instead of a Philly cheesesteak, call it a Cowboys cheesesteak.

It’s made with brisket, jalapeno queso and grilled onions, piled high on fresh bread from nearby Guanajuato Bakery.

On the side, Ole serves hand-cut french fries.

(Not just fresh-cut. They’re actually hand-cut.)

It might be as good as Swiss Pastry Shop’s popular “Fort Worth cheesesteak,” with two advantages: (1) brisket and (2) those fries.

If you haven’t tried it, Enchiladas Ole is known for enchiladas, sauces and toppings. The ancho-chile sauce or the Hatch verde sauce are complicated and craft-style.

Ole’s spicy white-cheddar queso has also been ranked one of the 10 best in Texas (by Austin-based Wide Open Eats).

A brisket taco and a “street” chicken enchilada at Enchiladas Ole.
A brisket taco and a “street” chicken enchilada at Enchiladas Ole. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com


Enchiladas Ole’s Sylvania location is open for lunch daily except Sunday, and for dinner Thursday through Saturday; 817-984-1360, enchiladasole.com.

This story was originally published February 13, 2019 at 5:41 AM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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