Eats Beat

Newest burger stop on I-35W is a barbecue favorite: the new 407BBQ

A jalapeno brisket burger at 407BBQ.
A jalapeno brisket burger at 407BBQ.

Of all things, 407BBQ has also turned into a great hamburger grill.

Contest winner Bryan McLarty’s old barbecue trailer is now a barbecue-and-burger restaurant with a great Texas address:

“On a farm road east of the interstate near the gun store.”

The new 407BBQ is 1 mile east of the old original location, at first a trailer at a landmark liquor store in Denton County north of Texas Motor Speedway.

The menu still includes contest-quality smoked brisket, ribs, sausage, ham, turkey, chicken, bologna and — a less common item — smoked meatloaf.

But do not miss the new additions: a house-ground brisket burger or jalapeno brisket burger.

Yes, I know what you’re going to say. Heim Barbecue has a great brisket burger. And it does.

But 407BBQ steps up its game with a ground brisket burger that’s laced with chopped jalapenos and then seasoned and smoked all over again ($9.50).

The result is a smoked burger with a great jalapeno flavor.

The new 407BBQ has a simple but large dining room. Bud Kennedy

I added sauce, pickles and sriracha mustard. Some diners prefer A.1. Sauce.

There’s also a regular double-smoked brisket burger ($9). Both burgers are served on the now-familiar sweet-sourdough buns.

If you’re not in the burger or brisket mood, try one of 407BBQ’s specialty sandwiches ($11.50): a “boss hawg” or “burning pig” with pulled pork or sausage and jalapenos, or a turkey-and-swiss.

For side items, there are baked potatoes (big enough for an entree), plus mac-and-cheese, baked beans, green-chile creamed corn and the usual okra, slaw or potato salad.

Word gets around. One day this week,an owner of Kansas City’s 80-year-old Tenderloin Grill, known for pig-snoot sandwiches, was in 407BBQ grabbing some Texas brisket to take home.

There’s a simple but large dining room now, barely big enough to hold the waiting line some days.

The new 407BBQ is open for lunch and dinner weekdays and Saturdays at 831 Farm Road 407 West, just outside Argyle; 682-224-9225,

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Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.