Eats Beat

Flamingo’s known for coastal-Mex seafood, resurfaces in Hurst

Rarely do closed restaurants reopen.

It’s even more rare for a restaurant to reopen after five years.

That’s the miracle of Flamingo’s, a coastal Mexican seafood restaurant that dazzled years ago in north Fort Worth and has made a comeback on Airport Freeway in Hurst.

Flamingo’s early reviews in Hurst have been telltale. Patrons who come for Acapulco-style seafood and cocktails rate it high.

Patrons who thought it was a Tex-Mex restaurant missed the point.

This is one restaurant where the bar menu says it all: daiquiris, a house sunrise-margarita with fresh-squeezed orange juice, fruity margaritas and swirls, and pineapple punch.

The location, a timeworn former Black-eyed Pea on the Airport Freeway, lacks any semblance of beachfront ambience.

Camarones a la Veracruzana from Flamingo’s Homestyle Mexican Cuisine in Fort Worth Friday May 17, 2013. (Star-Telegram/ Richard W. Rodriguez) Richard Rodriguez Star-Telegram archives

But look at the menu: octopus ceviche, seafood soups, “tropical” dishes with bacon, chorizo and pineapple, fish and shrimp dishes and stunningly good chicken enchiladas verdes with a tomatillo or serrano sauce.

The sauces are all distinctive: a chile arbol, a garlic sauce, tomatillo, ranchera or salsa diabla

A specialty is the “zarapes Mexicanos,” a platter of chicken, shrimp or steak combined with bacon, chorizo, pineapple and grilled peppers and onions.

The whole platter is covered with a “serape” (zarape) of Monterey cheese. Roll it all into the handmade corn tortillas and pretend you’re looking our on the Pacfic instead of the freeway.

Flamingo’s is open for lunch and dinner daily at 900 W. Airport Freeway, 817-849-5575,

Related stories from Fort Worth Star Telegram

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.