Rarely do closed restaurants reopen.
It’s even more rare for a restaurant to reopen after five years.
That’s the miracle of Flamingo’s, a coastal Mexican seafood restaurant that dazzled years ago in north Fort Worth and has made a comeback on Airport Freeway in Hurst.
Flamingo’s early reviews in Hurst have been telltale. Patrons who come for Acapulco-style seafood and cocktails rate it high.
Patrons who thought it was a Tex-Mex restaurant missed the point.
This is one restaurant where the bar menu says it all: daiquiris, a house sunrise-margarita with fresh-squeezed orange juice, fruity margaritas and swirls, and pineapple punch.
The location, a timeworn former Black-eyed Pea on the Airport Freeway, lacks any semblance of beachfront ambience.
But look at the menu: octopus ceviche, seafood soups, “tropical” dishes with bacon, chorizo and pineapple, fish and shrimp dishes and stunningly good chicken enchiladas verdes with a tomatillo or serrano sauce.
The sauces are all distinctive: a chile arbol, a garlic sauce, tomatillo, ranchera or salsa diabla
A specialty is the “zarapes Mexicanos,” a platter of chicken, shrimp or steak combined with bacon, chorizo, pineapple and grilled peppers and onions.
The whole platter is covered with a “serape” (zarape) of Monterey cheese. Roll it all into the handmade corn tortillas and pretend you’re looking our on the Pacfic instead of the freeway.