Eats Beat

How coffee, biscuits and jam are saving an ugly tower near TCU

Never would I have believed it.

But Dwell Coffee & Biscuits has turned a dowdy former savings-and-loan lobby into a booming coffee shop.

When you think, it makes sense. There wasn’t an Avoca near TCU. The campus coffee business is intense.

What better location than across from the college bookstore?

Even if it’s in an ugly 1976-vintage tower now called Campus Center?

At 7:30 the other night, when most coffee bars were closed and customers had moved on to happy hour, every seat in Dwell was filled.

The sandwiches were all marked “sold out.”

“All we have is biscuits-and-jam,” said the worker at the counter.

I’d tried Dwell before at the Brannon family’s original Burleson location. It was one of several disappointing new “biscuit cafes.”

But this time, the biscuit was fresher and came with plenty of local Moore Jam, a small local specialty jam also served at Three Danes Baking Co.

If the strawberry jam hadn’t won me over, the coffee would have.

It comes from Pinewood Coffee Roasters in Waco. I actually heard students saying, “I love this coffee!’ or “This is great coffee!”

The menu is nothing special: an egg-and-cheese biscuit sandwich, a sausage biscuit, a biscuit with gravy. The highlights here are the jam and the coffees, teas and matcha.

It’s open weekdays from 6 a.m., weekends from 7 till 10 p.m. at 3113 S. Univesity Drive, behind a 7-Eleven facing a supermarket; 817-720-6766,

The original Burleson location opens weekdays at 7 a.m., weekends at 8; 108 Ellison St., 817-447-7677.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.