Eats Beat

How coffee, biscuits and jam are saving an ugly tower near TCU

bud@star-telegram.com

Never would I have believed it.

But Dwell Coffee & Biscuits has turned a dowdy former savings-and-loan lobby into a booming coffee shop.

When you think, it makes sense. There wasn’t an Avoca near TCU. The campus coffee business is intense.

What better location than across from the college bookstore?

Even if it’s in an ugly 1976-vintage tower now called Campus Center?

At 7:30 the other night, when most coffee bars were closed and customers had moved on to happy hour, every seat in Dwell was filled.

The sandwiches were all marked “sold out.”

“All we have is biscuits-and-jam,” said the worker at the counter.

I’d tried Dwell before at the Brannon family’s original Burleson location. It was one of several disappointing new “biscuit cafes.”

But this time, the biscuit was fresher and came with plenty of local Moore Jam, a small local specialty jam also served at Three Danes Baking Co.

If the strawberry jam hadn’t won me over, the coffee would have.

It comes from Pinewood Coffee Roasters in Waco. I actually heard students saying, “I love this coffee!’ or “This is great coffee!”

The menu is nothing special: an egg-and-cheese biscuit sandwich, a sausage biscuit, a biscuit with gravy. The highlights here are the jam and the coffees, teas and matcha.

It’s open weekdays from 6 a.m., weekends from 7 till 10 p.m. at 3113 S. Univesity Drive, behind a 7-Eleven facing a supermarket; 817-720-6766, dwellcoffeeandbiscuits.com

The original Burleson location opens weekdays at 7 a.m., weekends at 8; 108 Ellison St., 817-447-7677.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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