Eats Beat

Texas seafood and ‘French toast sundaes’ at new Waterside restaurant

A “tricky’ blackened redfish with etouffee, dirty rice and fried okra at Tricky Fish in Waterside.
A “tricky’ blackened redfish with etouffee, dirty rice and fried okra at Tricky Fish in Waterside. bud@star-telegram.com

Just when you wonder whether chain restaurants can ever get anything right, along comes Tricky Fish.

The new contemporary cousin to Addison-based Razzoo’s opened this week in the Waterside shops, and might be that center’s biggest success yet.


Eats Beat Ep. 139

Two Million served!


Tricky Fish is billed as more of a Gulf Coast seafood shack than Razzoo’s, but the menu honestly combines plenty of Cajun spice with grilled or fried seafood platters, sandwiches, burgers, salads and sides like fried okra spears or Tillamook cheddar mac-and-cheese.

The signature “tricky” dish has blackened tilapia, salmon or redfish ($14.50-$19) topped with crawfish etouffee and served with dirty rice and okra sides. It’s enough to share.

Like Razzoo’s, Tricky Fish is generous with the spice.

Wisely, the owners didn’t stray far from what they know.

Tricky Fish is all about shrimp and po-boys and big desserts like bread pudding with peach-bourbon sauce, billed as a “French toast sundae.”

The dining room offers casual counter service at weekday lunch, but table service at dinner and weekend brunch. Or order at the bar anytime.

On Sunday, there’s a brunch menu with shrimp-and-oysters wth bacon-cheddar grits ($12.50), praline pancakes ($11.50) and a brunch-for-two special that includes two entrees and banana-rum monkey bread ($25 for two).

Tricky Fish is open for lunch or brunch and dinner daily at 5917 Convair Drive, next door to Zoe’s Kitchen (take the Arborlawn Drive exit off the tollway and drive west across Bryant Irvin Road); 817-731-5882, tricky-fish.com.

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