Eats Beat

Man cannot live by kolaches alone, so this bakery beefs up

Pearl Snap Kolaches A Rising Success

Adding burgers and sliders to their outstanding breakfast items has transformed this west side kolache restaurant into a first class breakfast and lunch destination.
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Adding burgers and sliders to their outstanding breakfast items has transformed this west side kolache restaurant into a first class breakfast and lunch destination.

When Pearl Snap Kolaches opened three years ago, it served good coffee and OK kolaches.

Rarely has a restaurant improved so much so fast.

Today's Pearl Snap serves contest-winning burgers on kolache buns, sliders, breakfast sandwiches, breakfast tacos with house-made salsa — and better kolaches.

The original location on White Settlement Road near the River District is now a breakfast and lunch cafe. It's not just a kolache bakery.

Pearl Snap's morning game has improved with sausage- or bacon-and-egg sandwiches on kolache buns with colby cheese and optional grilled jalapeños ($5 with drink).

But one of Pearl Snap's best upgrades is the klobasniky — more commonly called “sausage kolaches” ($2.50).

At a recent breakfast meeting that served a buffet of Pearl Snap items, the first to go were the sausage-cheese-and-jalapeño klobasniky, made with the bakery's softer-than-usual kolache dough wrapped around a skinless Syracuse Sausage from Ponder in Denton County.

If you've only tried the wretchedly flavorless Little Smokies sold in doughnut shops, or the dried-out klobasniky sold in convenience stores, one bite of a Pearl Snap klobasnik will explain why so many travelers make regular Interstate 35 stops at Gerik's or Slovacek's in West.

At lunchtime, Pearl Snap serves a solid bacon-jalapeño double cheeseburger on a kolache bun ($8, or $10 with chips and a drink).

It's a half-pound burger, notable for the fresh lettuce and tomato. A quarter-pound burger is $7.

Pearl Snap also serves coffees and coffee drinks from Marfa-based Big Bend Coffee Roasters. The kolache menu has expanded to include seasonal flavors such as blueberry or lemon.

The cavernous dining room is lined with TCU and the University of Texas flags. It's often filled with coffee drinkers using the Wi-Fi, which is a sign of a good, unique local coffee shop.

Pearl Snap is open for breakfast and lunch daily, closing at 2 p.m.; 4006 White Settlement Road, 817-233-8899,

A second shop on South Hulen Street serves breakfast daily, closing at noon; 2743 S. Hulen St.

A grocery turns 75, and Mama's is 50

A couple of big anniversaries are coming up.

Roy Pope Grocery, an old-timey local supermarket with a grill known for burgers and fried chicken, will mark 75 years May 19 with food samplings and music.

If you haven't shopped Roy Pope, it's a classic. (The original owner was partners with Charles Kincaid before the two split and Kincaid started his own grocery and burger grill.)

If you get tired of the line at Central Market, Roy Pope is a mile away, open weekdays and Saturdays at 2300 Merrick St.; 817-732-2863,

Mama's Pizza turns 50 in June. No, really.

Original owner Ed Stebbins' mother was from Naples, Italy. But to generations of customers, “Mama” was Mama Elizabeth Biggs, who worked 20 years at the flagship location near Texas Wesleyan University.

The original Mama's opened in Lake Worth in 1968, then moved near Wesleyan in 1969.

Watch for more on the local favorite's upcoming party.

Spring menu ready at Clay Pigeon

New Clay Pigeon Food + Drink chef Bria Downey has rolled out her spring menu under chef-owner Marcus Paslay.

The new menu includes a shrimp-and-grits dish with white cheddar grits and Shishito peppers, and a fried quail with Calabrian chiles.

The new flatbread has roasted mushroom and charred asparagus. There's a strawberry-beet salad with goat cheese.

Clay Pigeon is open for dinner weeknights and Saturdays, and for brunch on Mother's Day at 2731 White Settlement Road; 817-882-8065, and

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Living and Fridays in Weekend. 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat