Eats Beat

BBQ brisket on a pizza? It works at Cane Rosso in Fort Worth

Cane Rosso’s newest pizza combines Heim brisket with soppressata and habanero honey.
Cane Rosso’s newest pizza combines Heim brisket with soppressata and habanero honey.

What could be more Magnolia Avenue than Heim Barbecue on a Cane Rosso pizza?

Cane Rosso always serves a “burnt ends” pizza on Tuesdays, when Heim takes the day off.

With a fourth-anniversary party coming up next week, a new Stock Show special combines Heim smoked brisket with soppressata, bacon marmalade and house-made habanero honey.

It’s like — well, it’s like a combination of great brisket and pizza.

“Heim’s great. I went Saturday and stood in line for an hour like everybody else,” Cane Rosso owner Jay Jerrier said this week.

“It’s a big seller. While I was there, they sent for another brisket.”

The Heim pizza joins Melt Ice Creams on what has become a Cane Rosso menu of Magnolia Avenue all-stars.

In four years, Cane Rosso has expanded the menu past pizzas to include weekend brunch biscuit sandwiches like the “Mother Cluckin’ ” — basically the same soppressata, bacon marmalade and habanero honey, but on a chicken biscuit.

The biscuits and gravy comes with bacon-marmalade biscuits and Calabrian chile pepper sausage gravy.

“Fort Worth really likes dollar mimosas and chicken biscuits,” Jerrier said.

“We’ve decided that Cane Rosso doesn’t have to be a strict Neapolitan pizza restaurant. It can be a blend with Southern classics, too.”

Heim brisket may soon make its way into pasta and ravioli, Jerrier said.

As Cane Rosso has grown, it’s also meeting new competition.

A few blocks east, the La Zona on Magnolia patio restaurant opened this week, featuring a small Mediterranean bar named Hotel Madrid, serving Neapolitan-style pizzas.

A new location of California-based MidiCi The Neapolitan Pizza Company will open by early February at 629 Stayton St. near Hopdoddy Burger Bar in the Left Bank shops.

“We’re happy to see more people serving wood-fired pizza,” Jerrier said.

“Better a La Zona or MidiCi than someplace like a Pie Five or a Blaze.” (Both are corporate serving-line restaurants.)

For the fourth anniversary next week, Cane Rosso will serve $1 pizzas (Margherita, marinara or foccacia) and $5 house cocktails. One drawing winner will get free pizza for a year.

Cane Rosso is open for lunch or brunch and dinner daily (on weekdays, it takes a two-hour break in midafternoon); 815 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-922-9222,

Burgers join menu at New Mexico cafe

Just when I wrote about a New Mexico-style restaurant west of Lake Worth, it’s changing.

Papa’s Dine In Dive is the new name and theme for chef Anthony Aguillon’s La Choza Fine Food, adding his burgers and a more casual menu.

Papa’s will keep La Choza’s New Mexico rellenos, stacked enchiladas and tacos, but drop the higher-priced items, Aguillon said.

He was known for burgers at his previous north Fort Worth restaurant, Anthony’s Place, and at an earlier La Choza location in Parker County.

I’m not sure whether the restaurant will take a day or two off for the changes, but it’s usually open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday and lunch Sunday at 7001 Confederate Park Road; 817-751-9060.

Time to book a table for Valentine’s Day

Not to alarm anyone, but it’s three weeks from Valentine’s Day.

Prime steakhouses like Del Frisco’s Double Eagle or Capital Grille in Fort Worth and Mercury Chophouse in Arlington are starting to book up.

My suggestion for Valentine’s is always the same: Choose a nice Italian restaurant like La Piazza or Piccolo Mondo, a Southern fine dining restaurant like Ellerbe Fine Foods or a French restaurant like Saint-Emilion, Paris 7th (if it’s open by then) or Rise N°3 Salon de Souffle.

Most of all, book soon.

More specials and menus in an upcoming Eats Beat here or at

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat.