‘These are lovely people.’ Devoted employees keep restaurant humming in Grapevine

Every restaurant founder hopes theirs is one that brings in many people over many years, becoming a staple in the community.

In the case of Esparza’s Restaurante Mexicano in Grapevine, Steve Brown’s establishment has not only brought in countless customers since opening in 1985, but it has also become known for employees who come onboard and stay.

And stay, and stay, and stay.

“People love this old house’s unique setting, and they love historic downtown Grapevine,” Brown said. “They also love that they see the same people working here, year after year.”

In all, Brown has six employees who have been with the restaurant for 30 years, another 10 for 25 years, and 13 more with 15-plus years. Those who have worked there the longest include Marilyn Bender, 34 years; Israel Casas, 31 years; while Edmundo Olvera, Charlotte Cannady, Jose “JD” Diaz, and Gabriel Diaz have each been with the company for three decades.

“I began working here in my 20s, in 1990, weeks after I got married,” Cannady, 59, said. “I have worked here my entire married life. My son was born in 2001 and Marilyn Bender bought him his first car seat.

“At the age of 1, his favorite food was Esparza’s guacamole. At 2, he could count to 10 in Spanish, because Max Granados taught him how. These are lovely people, these employees, and I am so grateful to have worked here — more than half my life in this place.”

When Esparza’s opened on May 1, 1985, the bar had 10 stools and three booths for a total capacity of 22, with two dining rooms seating 80 guests and no patio. Today, the dining rooms seat 220 with 28 bar stools and an 80-seat patio.

As the reputation of the food and service grew — along with it becoming known as the “Margarita Capital of Texas” — numerous remodels and expansions became necessary. The largest occurred in 2006 at a cost of $1 million, including a new kitchen, bar, and bathrooms, Brown said.

Sales for the first year of Esparza’s totaled $714,000, Brown said. Last year, he said the restaurant made $5.45 million.

Brown said the reason for the success isn’t all that complicated.

“Esparza’s offers consistent quality food, notorious margaritas, and my staff provides outstanding customer service,” he said.

Which has brought in a lot of guests, including some pretty notable names, over the years.

“I have many memories. One that comes to mind is when (Dallas Cowboys quarterback) Dak Prescott came in to have dinner,” Gabriel Diaz said. “It was great. He took pictures with everyone, and he was very nice.”

Having been with the restaurant since 1989, the 78-year-old Casas recalls helping many famous customers.

“I remember when the family of the wrestling Von Erichs would come to the restaurant to eat. While they waited for a table, they would playfully wrestle in the front yard of the restaurant,” Casas said. “I also remember Mr. Terry Bradshaw (Super Bowl champion quarterback for the Pittsburgh Steelers). He always reserved a table.”

Bender, like Cannady, has spent more than half of her life working at Esparza’s.

“My fondest memory of working at Esparza’s are all the people I have met from all around the world, and all the regulars that have come in since we have opened — and now seeing their children and grandchildren,” she said.

Jose Diaz reflected on all of the good times and changes he has seen as he watched Esparza’s go from a small restaurant to a large one. And, like the customers, he has loved the food from the beginning.

“I started working as a busboy. I was 15 years old and the enchiladas that I ate for free were very good,” he said with a smile.

In fact, the restaurant has been a part of Brown’s life for more than half the time he has been in this world. He turned 60 this year, and has plans to add many more memories in the coming years.

“The most gratifying thing about being here for 35 years is seeing young couples on their first date, that turns into marriage and turns into a family,” he said. “Twenty years later I’m catering their kids’ weddings, and now I see them come in with their kids.”