Neil Sperry

Learn to separate truth from fiction when it comes to groundcovers

Good bed preparation is critical to success with groundcovers. So is good drainage.
Good bed preparation is critical to success with groundcovers. So is good drainage. Special to the Star-Telegram

There’s a lot of misinformation when it comes to the topic of groundcovers.

Folks give them more credit than they deserve. They expect more of them than they should.

And they forget to use them when they could. Let’s separate the facts from the fantasies and get right to the truth about groundcovers.

What is a groundcover?

Any plant that serves to cover bare earth and hold the soil in the process could be classed as a “groundcover.” In truth, turfgrass is our most reliable groundcover. It’s usually the least expensive to plant, the easiest to maintain and the most durable.

That takes the wind out of the sails of those folks who proclaim, “I’m tired of mowing my lawn. I want something easier. I’m just going to plant a groundcover.” Turfgrass fits all of that description.

But there are times that some other type of plant is more suitable as a ground-covering plant then plain turfgrass.

When shade is excessive. All of our common lawn grasses in Texas require a certain amount of direct sunlight. St. Augustine and fescue require the least, but even they need six hours of direct sunlight daily during the growing season. When there is less direct sunlight than that, and when there is no other option of getting more sunlight in beneath the trees, then we have to resort to a shade-tolerant ground cover if we want greenery in that area.

When a slope is too steep to maintain safely. This could be a issue in mowing, but it can also be a factor in erosion. There are groundcovers that will hold the soil very well, even in shade. There are, of course, those first few months that leave you rather nervous as the groundcover establishes its roots. You hope that a heavy, washing rain doesn’t set you back.

Long, narrow areas. There are open spaces where it is difficult to mow, edge and even irrigate and fertilize turfgrass. Having a groundcover planted there can make it much easier.

The real reason many of us use them

All of those are great justifications for having groundcovers around us in our landscapes and gardens, but many of us just like the way that they look. They give a natural relief from more shrubs and turfgrass – a transition, if it were, between the tall plants and those that are flat on the ground. They give us the chance to vary the textures and mix in a little color and growth form. They’re the throw pillows on the sofa or the place mats on the table. Something that just makes the whole picture more complete.

Getting ready for groundcovers

Since these plants will be growing in your garden for many years, even decades, you’re going to need to choose types that can handle your native soil. Long after the organic matter has broken down and disappeared, you want your groundcover to be steaming along, holding its own.

If you can get your planting established and thriving, that’s usually all that it takes. Work 2-3 inches of compost and other organic matter into the top 5 inches of native soil. Use a rear-tine rototiller to blend it all together into a smooth mix. Start with healthy, vigorous transplants of your chosen groundcover, whether nursery transplants or divisions. Space them closely together for fastest cover. Exact spacing will depend on the type of groundcover and size of transplants.

Water the new plantings deeply and thoroughly immediately after planting, and follow through for their first year by watering by hand if necessary. Apply a high-nitrogen lawn food to promote the most vigorous growth.

Most types will at least cover the ground in their first growing season (provided you didn’t space the plants too far apart). However, they won’t start to thicken up and take on their full, mature appearance until their second or even third growing seasons.

Best groundcovers for North Texas

There are many good choices, but my list of the best has boiled down to the following:

  • Purple wintercreeper euonymus. Has moved into first place among the full-sun, trailing groundcovers. Dark green all summer, turns plum purple in winter. Sun or part sun. Grows to 8 inches tall with annual trimming.
  • Asian jasmine. Long popular for full sun. Deep, glossy green leaves. Can be damaged by extreme cold. Grows to 6 to 8 inches. Can be mowed in late winter to even up its height. Very attractive when manicured.
  • Mondograss (monkeygrass). My choice as the best groundcover beneath trees because it has no runners to snag fallen leaves. Grass-like texture, although you don’t mow it and you don’t walk on it. Holds soil better than any other groundcover. Grows to 8 inches tall. Fine-textured. Part shade or shade. No significant blooms. Dwarf mondograss is very slow-growing and subject to soil-borne diseases.
  • Liriope. Big sister to mondograss. Deep green foliage. Lavender or white flower spikes in summer. Grows to 14 to 18 inches tall. Shade or part shade. Variegated forms also available, but not as strong growers.
  • English ivy. Favorite from decades ago and still excellent if drainage is good. Deep green, evergreen foliage. Will climb trunks, sides of houses. Probably best not to let that get out of hand.

You can hear Neil Sperry on KLIF 570AM on Saturday afternoons 1-3 pm and on WBAP 820AM Sunday mornings 8-10 am. Join him at www.neilsperry.com and follow him on Facebook.

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