Camellias are challenging. Here’s what to know about growing the ‘Queen of Flowers’ in DFW

My wife of many decades was surprised when I mentioned I’d had two years of dancing classes when I was a youngster. I told her I learned a long time ago it’s better to remain quiet when you’re not very good at something.

You haven’t seen me write much about camellias here, either. I’m not the world authority on growing them in the first place, and certainly not in the very alkaline black clay gumbo soils we all call home, or in our often-cold North Texas winters. But I’m spilling my punch lines — the few facts I do know about this plant called “The Queen of Flowers” by its most rabid enthusiasts.

There are two common species of the genus Camellia that are found in the nursery trade. Both have flowers in shades of red, pink, and white. The larger, showier flowers are usually from varieties of Camellia japonica, while selections of C. sasanqua tend to have smaller flowers and leaves. Most sasanquas bloom earlier in the flowering season (November and December and on into January) compared to the japonicas which most often bloom from late January through February and into early spring.

Therein lies one of the more critical differences. Not only are the sasanquas one USDA Hardiness Zone more tolerant of cold, but they also flower before the really cold weather arrives. Camellia buds are very tight. Moisture gets between the petals while the buds are still tightly formed, and when that moisture freezes it causes the plant tissues to rupture. Subsequently the bud is ruined.

▪ Decision One: If you’re going to be planting your camellia out into the landscape, find a protected location for either species, but to add to the odds of its surviving, stick with the sasanqua varieties. Unless you have a very warm winter spot, japonicas might be best saved for growing in large pots so you can move them into winter protection during cold spells.

▪ Decision Two: The soil needs. The reason you don’t see more camellias being grown in Fort Worth/Dallas and the surrounding area (beyond our winter temperatures) is because of our native soils. If you’re a camellia, you hate these soils! Camellias, like azaleas, dogwoods, wisterias, most pines, and sweet gums all prefer soils that are highly acidic. In the chemistry lab they use the term “pH,” and we use it in the garden as well.

We want soils for our camellias to be pH 6.0 or lower. That might be Tyler, but it’s certainly not Fort Worth. Most of our local soils have a pH of 7.5 or higher. That means that the nutrient iron will become insoluble, and your camellias will begin to turn yellow from lack of chlorophyll in the absence of iron.

You could add sulfur soil acidifier in an attempt to lower the soil’s pH, but that’s going to be about as futile as teaching Neil to dance. Instead, you need to dig and remove topsoil from the planting bed where you’ll be setting your new camellia. They grow rather slowly, which means the hole only needs to be 3 feet wider (but no deeper) than the ball of soil in the plant’s nursery container.

Set the new plant in the middle of the new planting hole, then fill in around it with a mix of 50% sphagnum peat moss and 50% finely ground pine bark mulch or well-rotted compost. As the mix decays, add 1-2 inches of new mix each year. Apply your sulfur soil acidifier to that mix and water deeply to get everything settled in.

Little pruning will be needed as your camellia starts to grow. You might have one or two branches that grow astray. They can be trimmed off and the plant reshaped in spring after the plant has finished blooming. Otherwise, avoid formal shearing.

Fertilize camellias with a specialty azalea/camellia plant food applied in early spring, late spring, and early fall. Keep it properly watered by checking its soil regularly.

Camellias planted directly into the ground may need occasional protection from cold. Since you won’t be able to wheel them into the garage, it’s imperative that you have a piece of frost cloth cut and ready to fit over each plant when temperatures are going to drop very far below freezing, especially if buds are on the plants at the time. Note that we’re talking about actual frost cloth, not plastic and not quilts – the real product intended for this specific purpose. Your local nursery will have what you need.

▪ Decision Three: Planting site. Camellias need bright light, but no direct afternoon sunlight during the summer. Your goal should be sun or part sun until mid-morning during the growing season, then bright shade the rest of the day. Too little light and the plants will get lanky and fail to bloom. Too much sun and the leaves will scorch and blister.

That is what I can tell you about growing camellias in the Metroplex. I know the tips will work, because I have used them successfully myself. You can do it!