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Guy Fieri’s Taco Joint is a pleasant surprise, but do you need to go more than once?

Facebook Live: Texas Live! in Arlington hosts its grand opening

The Star-Telegram's Robert Philpot broadcasts live from the grand opening of Texas Live! in Arlington.
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The Star-Telegram's Robert Philpot broadcasts live from the grand opening of Texas Live! in Arlington.

The Star-Telegram checked out every restaurant at Texas Live! Read other reviews here.

Spiky-haired celebrity chef Guy Fieri has a reputation for being over the top, as he has been in a couple of “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” swings through North Texas restaurants and at his own burger stand in Gexa Energy Pavilion/Starplex/Dos Equis Pavilion/whatever its name is this month.

So the modest Guy Fieri’s Taco Joint, an order-at-the-counter stall with a small selection of street-style tacos (three to an order), came as a bit of a surprise OK, the “cheeseburger taco” sounds like something predictable from Fieri, but the al pastor tacos (Shiner Ruby Redbird glazed pork shoulder, chipotle-sweet onion, grilled pineapple-serrano salsa, cilantro, cotija cheese and, avocado-tomatillo salsa) were actually pretty good, if a little you’re-gonna-have-to-use-a-fork overstuffed. The pork had good texture and a bit of a bite from the marinade (Ruby Redbird is Shiner’s grapefruit-infused brew), and the toppings brought a little more citrus flavor and respectable heat.

The draw at Guy’s, however, may be the drinks (which we had to avoid because we were returning to the office): a 24-ounce “caliente” frozen margarita (with jalapeño “elixir”) and margaritas made with Jarritos sodas are the most offbeat touches, and a traditional margarita and Sol beer are also available. For non-alcoholic choices, its Jarritos soda or water — sorry, iced-tea drinkers.

So there’s a curiosity factor here, and the food’s not bad. But there are also tons of taco places in DFW, many of them cheaper and more authentic, and not requiring a trip to Texas Live! to try them. Guy’s is better than we expected, but now that our curiosity is sated, we’ll be back to our usual haunts and exploring.

Texas Live! opens smack in the middle of the Texas Rangers Globe Life Park and the Dallas Cowboys AT&T Stadium, the evening ending with concerts by Eleven Hundred Springs and The Toadies.

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