Texas Rangers

Crowding the plate: Booty’s offers All-Star fries in Surprise

By Stefan Stevenson

sstevenson@star-telegram.com
The Too Bleu Bacon Burger at Booty’s in Surprise, Ariz., comes with melted bleu cheese, applewood smoked bacon and bleu cheese dressing.
The Too Bleu Bacon Burger at Booty’s in Surprise, Ariz., comes with melted bleu cheese, applewood smoked bacon and bleu cheese dressing. Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer
SURPRISE, Ariz.

Most of the time, I’m an onion ring kind of guy. Only time I order fries is if there’s something special about them — fresh cut, seasoned, or fresh out of the McDonald’s deep fat fryer. And, yes, I do request “fresh” fries when I’m at the McDonald’s drive-thru. (If I’m going down with clogged arteries there’s no sense in doing it with stale fries.)

My first dinner this spring in Surprise was at our local hangout, Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer. Former Star-Telegram beat writer T.R. Sullivan has it written into the beat writer bylaws that Booty’s, a sports bar, is our go-to restaurant and bar. It’s close, just a Joey Gallo tater from the Rangers spring training complex.

I’m not a big wings or sports bar guy, mainly because the food is typically uninspiring. Booty’s however, is an exception. I’ve sampled most of the menu over three spring trainings and usually hobble out of there with a happy, stuffed belly.

The fresh cut fries at Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer, a sports bar near the Rangers’ spring training complex in Surprise, Ariz., are a big step above your typical restaurant fries. The go well with the chili cheese dog.
The fresh cut fries at Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer, a sports bar near the Rangers’ spring training complex in Surprise, Ariz., are a big step above your typical restaurant fries. The go well with the chili cheese dog. Stefan Stevenson sstevenson@star-telegram.com

The burgers, salads and wings are well above average. But my favorite item is the Booty’s Bomber. There are four versions: steak, chicken, pork or veggie. (Let’s be serious: I’ve never considered ordering the veggie.) Anyway, they’re served in a sea of melted provolone cheese, garlic mushrooms and sauteed peppers and onions on a soft, fresh-baked Italian roll. The fresh-cut fries are light and crispy with that hollow center texture that creates a magical delusion that you’re not, in fact, eating your weight in fries. They get that delicate texture from a three-stage, 45-minute soaking process that pulls out the starch and helps create maximum crispiness. When ordered, the fries are cooked for four minutes in soybean oil and served hot and fresh. Booty’s goes through three cases of potatoes every day.

When I’m in town, that doubles.

The fries at Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer, a sports bar near the Rangers’ spring training complex in Surprise, Ariz., are fresh cut daily and fried in soy oil. Here they compliment Booty’s chicken bomber.
The fries at Booty’s Wings, Burgers and Beer, a sports bar near the Rangers’ spring training complex in Surprise, Ariz., are fresh cut daily and fried in soy oil. Here they compliment Booty’s chicken bomber. Stefan Stevenson sstevenson@star-telegram.com

Crowding the Plate is an occasional report from the road on the culinary exploits of Texas Rangers beat writer Stefan Stevenson.

Stefan Stevenson: 817-390-7760, @StevensonFWST

This story was originally published February 22, 2016 at 12:40 PM with the headline "Crowding the plate: Booty’s offers All-Star fries in Surprise."

Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER