Eats Beat

A new restaurant in Benbrook near west Fort Worth shines at weekend brunch

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  • Jakes Burgers and Tacos & Avocados in Benbrook open weekends at 9 a.m.
  • Tacos & Avocados’ Tex‑Mex brunch includes birria chilaquiles and corn pancakes.
  • Brunch is weekends 9 a.m.–1 p.m.; weekdays lunch/dinner begin at 11 a.m.

The best time to go to Jakes Burgers is mornings, and now the same is true for spinoff Tacos & Avocados.

The two restaurants are new in Benbrook, packing a full house at night for burgers, fajitas and drinks.

My advice is simple: Get up early and go Saturday or Sunday mornings to 9300 Benbrook Blvd. (U.S. 377).

For years, Jakes’ downtown Fort Worth location has been known for a good, local breakfast that draws hotel guests.

Now, Tacos & Avocados is serving a Tex-Mex brunch that achieves far above its burger-chain heritage,

No other chain Tex-Mex has a brunch menu like this:

  • Birria chilaquiles with a sunny-side up egg;
  • Sweet corn pancakes (arepas or cachapas) with caramelized pineapple and caramel;
  • Migas with Shiner Bock brisket;
  • Horchata with cinnamon king cake rum cream.
Chilaquiles, right, and pineapple cornmeal pancakes at Tacos & Avocados in Benbrook.
Chilaquiles, right, and pineapple cornmeal pancakes at Tacos & Avocados in Benbrook. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The result is a brunch comparable to a nicer restaurant menu. It’s not as genuine as the real-deal city restaurants like Tesoro, Esperanza’s or La Casa de Lina, but it’s good for a suburban corporate chain.

This is the first new-look Tacos & Avocados. The company also plans to open alongside another Jakes in North Richland Hills at 5301 Davis Blvd. (A Fort Worth deal on Montgomery Street fell through.)

And this newest Tacos & Avocados is far better than an older location in downtown Carrollton.

Tacos & Avocados is a new Tex-Mex restaurant in Benbrook from the owners of Jakes Burgers.
Tacos & Avocados is a new Tex-Mex restaurant in Benbrook from the owners of Jakes Burgers. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

On a trip last weekend, the chips and salsa were fresh and the chilaquiles were a bowl full of salsa roja fun.

The most stunning dish was the pancakes. Only a few restaurants serves cornmeal pancakes at all, and then they sometimes come out as thick Southern hoecakes. Tacos & Avocado’s pancakes are light, fluffy and a perfect stage or the caramelized pineapple.

A vanilla flan was soft, creamy, and — well, it was half gone before I remembered to take a photo.

Tacos & Avocados’ online reviews indicate that there is a waiting line some nights and that the Tex-Mex can be run-of-the-mill.

My advice is to set your alarm.

Tacos & Avocados, seen here in Benbrook, Texas, has changed for the better since the first location opened.
Tacos & Avocados, seen here in Benbrook, Texas, has changed for the better since the first location opened. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Brunch is served weekends only from 9 a.m to 1 p.m., followed by dinner. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner weekdays from 11 a.m.

Jakes next door has a lively sports bar atmosphere and the burgers-and-fries tradition started by Dallas’ Keller’s Drive-In.

This Jakes also opens at 9 a.m. weekends for brunch. The Sundance Square location at 515 Main St. opens daily at 8 a.m. for breakfast, and the Aledo, Grand Prairie, Grapevine and Mansfield locations open at 10 a.m. weekends for brunch.

A 3-acre “backyard” and patio in Benbrook has live music and its own menu; jakesburgersandbeer.com, tacosandavocados.com.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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