Miss a Fort Worth restaurant? Where to find that new revival or old favorite
Campo Verde, Cattlemen’s Steak House, Margie’s Italian Gardens and Pulido’s Kitchen are back, all better than ever.
But if the new restaurant revivals just don’t feel the same — there are alternatives.
Every old-time nostalgic favorite that reopens with a new, 21st-century look and menu draws complaints at first.
The food isn’t like it was in 1977. Or the prices went up. Or it’s not dark and smoky anymore.
But for every beautiful new revival, there’s an old-time Fort Worth restaurant for those uneasy with change.
Cattlemen’s and Riscky’s
The new Cattlemen’s Steak House, 2458 N. Main St., is top-class. It serves the same steaks, chicken-frieds and catfish in a much more handsome atmosphere, yet keeps the Western authenticity of the original.
I’d compare it to Reata Restaurant, and it’s no surprise that both restaurants have just a hint of Hollywood.
The new dining rooms are decorated in Western finery. The food is a definite step up from the old Cattlemen’s, but the menu doesn’t add anything that seems foreign. On recent visits, a chicken-fried steak, fried catfish and the restaurant’s traditional potato soup all arrived in a much-improved version.
But if you really miss the old Western theme-park appeal, Riscky’s Steakhouse is around the corner at 120 E. Exchange Ave.
Riscky’s has its own Hollywood connection, but older. The Western decor was designed in 1959 by an art director from Walt Disney Studios.
The menu has barely changed since the days of founder Theo Yordanoff, who opened Theo’s Cafe in 1922 to serve cowboys and packinghouse workers.
Riscky’s appetizers include eccentricities from calf fries — they were first served on a menu here — to jalapeno cheese curds and Polish cabbage soup (kapusta). There’s also a $5-$9 children’s menu, or a $13 child’s flatiron steak.
Riscky’s is open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-624-4800, risckys.com.
Cattlemen’s is open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-624-3945, cattlemenssteakhouse.com.
Margie’s and Mancuso’s
The revived Margie’s Italian Gardens, 9805 Camp Bowie Blvd. West, is a fresh, brightly lit tribute to Margie “Mama Meatball” Walters’ 1953 restaurant.
The menu is simple and features pastas with fresh sides or salads from adjacent Westland Gardens.
But Margie’s isn’t as red-sauce-heavy as the 1900s version.
If that’s what you remember, try Mancuso’s, 9500 White Settlement Road.
Founder Cathy Mancuso used to work at Margie’s, and her lasagna and sauces are just as thick and memorable.
Mancuso’s is open for dinner nightly; 817-246-7041, mancusos1987.com.
Campo Verde and Chente Cafe
Campo Verde Mexican Bar & Grill, 2918 W. Pioneer Parkway between Fort Worth and Arlington, is a new restaurant with a new grill menu featuring steaks, salmon and roast chicken along with standards such as chicken enchiladas and brisket tacos.
Chef “Moose” Benhamacht has opened something special and new in the old “Christmas wonderland” restaurant, keeping a streamlined version of the intense holiday light display.
But if you really miss the Arizonan-Sonoran cooking that Campo Verde was known for over the last 40 years, look to Chente “Mex-Seafood” Cafe, 10771 Interstate 20 West on the Brazos River west of Weatherford.
Chente combined the old Campo Verde chile powder-dusted chips, queso and sauces, along with the fried catfish and homemade pies of Brazos River Catfish, its predecessor in the 85-year-old roadside cafe.
Chef de cuisine Antonio Reyes was at Campo Verde 40 years. Now, he’s at this little country cafe near Millsap.
There’s no Christmas decor. That’s up to your imagination.
Chente Cafe is listed as open for lunch daily and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, but that seems to change; facebook.com
Campo Verde is serving lunch and dinner daily except Monday by reservation until its official opening July 1; thecampoverde.com.
Pulido’s and ... your pick
The remodeled Pulido’s Kitchen & Cantina restaurants have now been open a year in Fort Worth and Hurst.
What seemed like a stunning change at first now seems familiar and comfortable, particularly the Pulido’s enchiladas. in “old fashioned” mild chili gravy with lettuce and tomato on top.
If you’re looking for a familiar setting, the old Pulido’s near Benbrook is now Don Melquias, 5051 Benbrook Highway.
Fort Worth is known as the capital of old-school Tex-Mex. The throwbacks here are Dallas-based El Fenix (1918) at four locations; The Original Mexican Eats Cafe (1930), now at 1400 N. Main St.; Joe T. Garcia’s (1936), 2201 N. Commerce St.; and Mexican Inn Cafes (1937), the restaurant that brought arroz con pollo to America, now at nine locations.
This story was originally published June 18, 2025 at 5:30 AM.
