Eats Beat

Popular southside Fort Worth spot for breakfast, chicken-fried steak closed

Old Neighborhood Grill, a landmark cafe in the Park Place Village shops for more than 20 years and once recognized on a Texas Monthly list of the state’s best breakfasts, closed June 14 after a week of farewells by owner Brenda Lester.

Her announcement handed to customers read: “This journey has been an incredible one, filled with memories, laughter, and shared meals that we will cherish forever. ... Over the years, we have strived to provide more than just food; we sought to create a space where community thrived and where the warmth of hospitality could be felt in every corner.

“We carry with us the joy of serving you, the friendships we’ve formed, and the lessons learned along the way. Each visit, every smile, and all those moments of connection have left an indelible mark on us.”

Spicy chicken tenders with zucchini and salad at Old Neighborhood Grill.
Spicy chicken tenders with zucchini and salad at Old Neighborhood Grill. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The Lesters bought the restaurant in 2017 from founder Peter Schroder, who opened the Old Neighborhood Grill in 1998.

It served home-cooking meals, chicken-fried steaks and breakfasts in a familiar Park Place Village location that was formerly a bar and burger grill named Rick’s Lockerroom.

The location had been a restaurant since 1959, when it opened as Park Place Cake Shop.

In 2011, Texas Monthly wrote: “When we’re jonesing for a meat fix [this is Texas, after all], we go for either of these two Wild West favorites: a pair of thick, smoky pork chops and two eggs over medium, or scrambled eggs with a small bowl of dark and spicy Uncle Joe’s chili. Taking time to sort through the newspapers and watching to see which local politicians have stopped in for breakfast, we know there’s not a homier way to start the day.”

Steak soft tacos on whole-wheat tortillas are new at Old Neighborhood Grill.
Steak soft tacos on whole-wheat tortillas are new at Old Neighborhood Grill. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

In a 2006 review, the Star-Telegram wrote that like the older Paris Coffee Shop on the south side, Old Neighborhood Grill is a “simple but beloved establishment, distinguished by its faithful clientele.”

The review went on: “They queue up each day, en masse, to eat fresh, handcrafted food that ranges from the comforting, such as burgers and pot roast, to a little more conscientious, such as blackened tilapia and veggie plates. I’ve witnessed kids and mommies, cops and hospital workers, empty-nesters and TCU kids crowded into tables, all attacking their plates with identical gusto.

“The cafe is bright, spanking clean and hung with a few pieces of artful photography, and it’s hard to believe that this was once the dark, beer-drenched Rick’s Lockerroom. No one would have guessed that the counter would someday be lined with cakes and pies and that the staff would be a chipper crew who ask no fewer than twice if you’re enjoying your meal.”

This story was originally published June 9, 2025 at 12:06 PM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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