Eats Beat

Landmark restaurant in Fort Worth’s Near Southside set to close as owner retires

Lili’s Bistro, one of the original restaurants in the rebirth of West Magnolia Avenue, will close May 31 and owner Vance Martin will retire, he said this week.

He has been talking with prospective buyers who might or might not keep Lili’s open under the same name, but has not reached a deal, Martin wrote in a Facebook comment.

Martin has been a restaurateur downtown and on the Near Southside for three decades, first at his Cafe Panacea sandwich shop and then at Lili’s, known for seafood, pastas, burgers and Gorgonzola cheese waffle fries.

Lili’s, 1310 W. Magnolia Ave., is is one of few restaurants to offer music nightly, including 60-year club pianist and Hall of Famer Johnny Case.

One wall of Lili’s Bistro is a former outdoor ad for Mrs. Baird’s Bread, founded a half-mile south in Fort Worth, as seen March 17, 2022.
One wall of Lili’s Bistro is a former outdoor ad for Mrs. Baird’s Bread, founded a half-mile south in Fort Worth, as seen March 17, 2022. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Lili’s decor includes a vintage outdoor ad for Mrs. Baird’s Bakery on what is now a dining room wall and memorabilia of pioneer baker and Fort Worth businesswoman Ninnie Baird. She began her company in 1908 a half-mile south at Washington and West Jefferson avenues.

In an announcement, Martin thanked his family and staff for a “fortunate and fabulous” career that began 47 years ago. Before opening his own restaurants, he managed the old Abernathy’s Restaurant on West Berry Street, now named Shaw’s, 1051 W. Magnolia Ave.

The Gorgonzola waffle fries are a signature dish at Lili’s Bistro in Fort Worth.
The Gorgonzola waffle fries are a signature dish at Lili’s Bistro in Fort Worth. Khampha Bouaphanh Star-Telegram archives

“It was always our intent to treat our guests like friends,” Martin wrote. “I think overall, we did a great job at that.”

When Lili’s opened in 2007, it was described in the Star-Telegram as a comfort food restaurant known for burgers, King Ranch chicken, pan-fried steak and bourbon butter apple pie in “lighter, more upscale” renditions.

Lili’s went on to become known for midprice seafood dishes and a varied menu along with the live music.

The owner and chef of Lili’s Bistro, Vance Martin, poses with the grilled talapia with cilantro rice and the gorgonzola fries in Fort Worth on May 30, 2007.
The owner and chef of Lili’s Bistro, Vance Martin, poses with the grilled talapia with cilantro rice and the gorgonzola fries in Fort Worth on May 30, 2007. Khampha Bouaphanh Star-Telegram archives

It opened on West Magnolia Avenue a year after tiny Nonna Tata, an Italian restaurant. Ellerbe Fine Foods arrived in 2009 and Cat City Grill in 2010, along with several burger grills, pizzerias, brunch cafes, Asian and Mexican or Tex-Mex restaurants.

Chef Jon Bonnell of Bonnell’s, Waters and Buffalo Bros paid tribute to Martin on Facebook, calling him a “class act and one helluva Chef. ... You have trained more great people in this business than anyone I can think of.”

Lili’s is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Wednesday through Saturday; 817-877-0700, reserve at lilisbistro.com/reservations/dinner-reservation.

Vance Martin of Lili’s Bistro, seen Feb. 9, 2012.
Vance Martin of Lili’s Bistro, seen Feb. 9, 2012. Sharon Corcoran Star-Telegram archives

This story was originally published May 7, 2025 at 1:01 PM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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