Eats Beat

What’s happened to Campo Verde? ‘Christmas wonderland’ near Fort Worth has gone dark

Campo Verde, a 43-year-old “Christmas wonderland” restaurant that draws families at the holidays for its 200,000 twinkling lights, 50 Santas, 30 trees and model trains, has gone dark in recent days, and its status is uncertain.

The restaurant opened intermittently in early January and posted a sign on the door saying that it would reopen Jan. 14 after repairs. It has remained dark and that sign is gone, replaced by a note from a vendor asking to pick up equipment.

The telephone hadn’t worked for months. The social media pages are deleted.

Tommy Stewart, a Louisiana restaurateur who bought Campo Verde in 2022 from late founder James “Smiley” Williams, has not returned calls.

Christmas decorations have been updated at Campo Verde restaurant in Dalworthington Gardens, seen Oct. 15, 2024.
Christmas decorations have been updated at Campo Verde restaurant in Dalworthington Gardens, seen Oct. 15, 2024. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Dalworthington Gardens Mayor Laurie Bianco said she had also noticed that the restaurant is dark but that she did not have more information.

Campo Verde consistently kept its Christmas spectacle open through fall and winter so families could come if they weren’t able to get in through the long lines at the peak in December.

With multiple rooms, ever-changing decorations and model trains circling above diners’ heads, Campo developed the same kind of fierce following on a smaller scale as a Casa Bonita, the legendary Tex-Mex restaurant and theme park in Denver.

But the restaurant struggled to stay open in December through three health inspections while serving crowds. It scored a 60 on Dec. 3, a 61 on a recheck Dec. 11 and a 71 on a second follow-up Dec. 17.

The “Ice Palace” is part of the new themed LED Christmas decorations at Campo Verde.
The “Ice Palace” is part of the new themed LED Christmas decorations at Campo Verde. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

On some of its final nights in January, the restaurant was out of several items and did not even have the traditional chile powder to dust its signature chips, commenters wrote on social media.

Campo Verde was built in the heyday of fajitas-and-margaritas restaurants by Williams, a manager for Fort Worth restaurateur Don Bowden at Dos Gringos before Bowden started Mercado Juarez Cafes.

Campo Verde founder James “Smiley” Williams in his Christmas-decorated restaurant on Nov. 20, 1998.
Campo Verde founder James “Smiley” Williams in his Christmas-decorated restaurant on Nov. 20, 1998. Jerry W. Hoefer Star-Telegram archives

When Stewart bought Campo, he tried to simplify the encyclopedic menu, dropping exotic items such as elk, bison or rattlesnake fajitas.

Forty-year chef Antonio Reyes left and has since reproduced many of the dishes at Chente Cafe Brazos River Catfish and Tex-Mex, 10771 Interstate 20 West at the Brazos River bridge.

Campo had been updated this year with LED lights and new holiday themes.

This story was originally published January 26, 2025 at 5:30 AM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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