Eats Beat

Fort Worth always loved these tacos. Now they’re back at a new Southside restaurant

Once upon a time in a land not so far away, there was a little local startup taco shop named Fuzzy’s.

Then, there were more smash hit restaurants — Pedro’s Trailer Park, Buffalo Cantina, Yucatan — all the work of late chef Paul Willis.

Now, some of his original recipes and staffers are back.

With a few 2024 updates, they have revived a well-worn Southside patio restaurant and reopened it as Tres Amigos Tacos & Tequila, 909 W. Magnolia Ave.

Tres Amigos started with the original tempura fish or smoked brisket tacos that launched Willis’ success 20 years ago, before Fuzzy’s was sold to out-of-state companies and changed beyond recognition. It now belongs to IHoP.

Next, Tres Amigos added updated enchiladas, grilled salmon, chorizo meatloaf and garlic rib-eye dinner plates.

Grilled salmon with corn and Spanish rice at Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila in Fort Worth.
Grilled salmon with corn and Spanish rice at Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila in Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Owner Sandy Rankin worked in several of Willis’ restaurants. She has recreated his salsas, sauces and also his margaritas.

Commenters on social media immediately noted the sky-high helpings of loaded nachos with beef, chicken or carnitas, plus queso, guacamole, jalapenos and garlic aioli.

The 12 tacos include a surf-and-turf steak and shrimp taco with chimichurri, a softshell crab taco with lobster queso, a mango-habanero tempura shrimp taco and several tacos with generous helpings of fresh-chopped vegetables.

On a visit this week, the tacos recaptured some of the old snap and flavor. The tortillas were fresh and delicious. The steak-and-shrimp taco was surprising, and the mango-habanero shrimp taco tasted like something that could have been on the Day One menu when local owners started Fuzzy’s.

One novelty: the garlic-buttered rib-eye, made the same way Willis’ friend Keith Kidwill made them at his long-gone, much-lamented M & M Steak House near the Stockyards.

A steak-and-shrimp taco and a traditional habanero-mango shrimp taco at Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila in Fort Worth.
A steak-and-shrimp taco and a traditional habanero-mango shrimp taco at Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila in Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Tres Amigos’ tables and chairs also came from the M & M.

Breakfast starts at 7 o’clock daily, featuring tacos or bowls and chilaquiles with the same spicy sauces.

The original Fuzzy’s/Pedro’s/Yucatan table pepper sauce is back in a slightly lighter rendition. There’s also a four-pepper sauce that Willis originated at Buffalo Cantina.

Tres Amigos serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; 682-224-2554, tresamigostacosandtequila.com.

Owner Sandy Rankin and others who worked with late chef Paul Willis have reopened one of his old restaurants as Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila.
Owner Sandy Rankin and others who worked with late chef Paul Willis have reopened one of his old restaurants as Tres Amigos Tacos and Tequila. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published September 5, 2024 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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