Eats Beat

At a friendly Phoenix restaurant, Texas Rangers’ World Series fans eat for half-price

Texas Rangers fans visiting Phoenix don’t have to go far to find familiar food.

Seven miles north of Chase Field, a restaurant is known for a giant chicken-fried steak, chili and brisket that won a Big Bend cookoff.

The name: Texaz Grill.

Founders Steve Friedkin, a Dallas native, and Jim Mitchell started the restaurant in 1985, at the height of an early Austin country music craze.

A chicken-fried steak at Texaz Grill in Phoenix, Arizona.
A chicken-fried steak at Texaz Grill in Phoenix, Arizona. Dominic Armato The Republic/USA TODAY NETWORK

The restaurant, 6003 N. 16th St. played Jerry Jeff Walker on the sound system, dished up Blue Bell ice cream and generally served as a refuge for Texans missing home.

For the World Series, Texaz Grill is offering half-priced dinners during games to anyone wearing a Rangers or Arizona Diamondbacks gear,

Not too long ago, a giant longhorn steer head hung over the bar, and there was a poster from Texas humorist Kinky Friedman’s 2006 campaign for governor. A TCU sticker adorned the beer cooler.

Phoenix is known as a city where residents moved from all over the country, and the foods reflect that.

The Texaz Grill in Phoenix features a campaign poster from humorist Kinky Freidman’s 2006 campaign for governor. He recived 13% of the vote.
The Texaz Grill in Phoenix features a campaign poster from humorist Kinky Freidman’s 2006 campaign for governor. He recived 13% of the vote. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
Texaz Grill in Phoenix’s decor includes a TCU sticker.
Texaz Grill in Phoenix’s decor includes a TCU sticker. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

East Texas fried chicken

Texas home cooking has an outpost only 1 mile from the Diamondbacks’ home Chase Field.

Mrs. White’s Golden Rule Cafe was opened in 1966 by Elizabeth White of Athens, Texas, It serves fried or smothered chicken and pork chops, fried catfish and vegetables such as yams and collard greens.

Fried chicken, yams and black-eyed peas at Mrs White’s Golden Rule in Phoenix.
Fried chicken, yams and black-eyed peas at Mrs White’s Golden Rule in Phoenix. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

A serious steakhouse

It’s not a Texas restaurant, but nothing makes a Texan feel more at home than a big steak.

Durant’s has been Phoenix’s best-known steakhouse for 70 years, ever since former Vegas casino manager “Jack” Durant opened it at 2611 N. Central Ave. downtown.

The decor maintains the original red-flocked wallpaper and serious steakhouse appearance that makes it look like a Hollywood set come to life.

The classic decor (and, in this 2022 photo, Christmas decorations) at Durant’s steakhouse in Phoenix.
The classic decor (and, in this 2022 photo, Christmas decorations) at Durant’s steakhouse in Phoenix. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
A booth at classic Durant’s steakhouse in downtown Phoenix.
A booth at classic Durant’s steakhouse in downtown Phoenix. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Flower Child, P.F. Chang’s, Pei Wei

Phoenix is also where national restaurant chains started.

That list includes Flower Child, now in Fort Worth’s University Park Village, and two Asian chains from Scottsdale, Arizona: P.F. Chang’s and Pei Wei.

Dallas has locations of three related Flower Child restaurants: Culinary Dropout, the Henry and True Food Kitchen.

This story was originally published October 31, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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