Eats Beat

When will that Arlington BBQ restaurant reopen? What about the Fort Worth fish place?

Smoke’N Ash BBQ nears Arlington return

Hey, Bud! I was looking for that Tex-Ethiopian barbecue restaurant in Arlington. It’s not where it used to be, but it’s not where the web says, either.

—Caller to 817-390-7538

Smoke’N Ash BBQ, a fusion restaurant made famous by Texas Monthly and the New York Times, is reopening any day at 5904 S. Cooper St., north of Sublett Road. I notice some websites list the correct address but have the old map to Matlock Road.

Pineapple (right-side-up) cake at Smoke’N Ash BBQ in Arlington.
Pineapple (right-side-up) cake at Smoke’N Ash BBQ in Arlington. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

La Onda nears Fort Worth return

Hey, Bud! When does La Onda reopen?

—Shopper at the TCU Kroger

La Onda, a heralded seafood restaurant that went ignored on Race Street, is training workers for its new location at 1165 Eighth Ave., inside Hotel Revel.

It’s a better location for chef Victor Villarreal. His original La Onda was named one of America’s 50 Best New Restaurants for 2022, which described it as “seafood magic.”

This week’s ceviche of the week at La Onda in Fort Worth includes golden tilefish, heirloom tomato, jicama, ginger, cucumber and jalapeno.
This week’s ceviche of the week at La Onda in Fort Worth includes golden tilefish, heirloom tomato, jicama, ginger, cucumber and jalapeno. La Onda

When do the customers come back?

Hey, Bud! Business has been slow. I understand dinner, but what happened to everybody at lunch?

—Several restaurant owners

This is the point in summer where we get worn down and just stay indoors. Restaurants say more diners are coming for breakfast or early lunch, then getting back to work before the high-noon sun.

Even crowded barbecue places like Dayne’s and Brix didn’t have a lunch line lately some weekdays. Go before Labor Day — the next week, everybody gets back on regular schedule.

This story was originally published August 30, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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