Eats Beat

There’s a new Doritos flavor, and it comes from this Fort Worth family via Houston

Lucille’s in Houston carries Fort Worth tradition

Hey, Bud! Is Lucille’s in Fort Worth related to the one in Houston?

—Just moved

There’s a connection, but not to Lucile’s (one “l”) on Camp Bowie Boulevard.

Lucille’s, where chef Chris Williams created the new Solid Black Spicy Pineapple Doritos, is the Houston foodie favorite from the family of 1950s Fort Worth chef and baker Lucille Bishop Smith (1892-1985).

Smith, known for chili biscuits served in the White House and aboard American Airlines, is one of the most famous Black American businesswomen and chefs of her generation. Lucille’s is in the Houston museum district at 5512 La Branch St.

Chef Chris Williams of Lucille’s in Houston.
Chef Chris Williams of Lucille’s in Houston. Jenn Duncan Handout photo

Jesús BBQ in Fort Worth has Tex-Mex, home cooking

Hey, Bud! I don’t see BBQ on the menu at Jesús BBQ. So Jesús BBQ is not a BBQ restaurant like Campisi’s Egyptian on Mockingbird does not sell Egyptian cuisine?

—Marla, Cleburne., at facebook.com/diningguy

Sort of. The late Jesús Borja actually served barbecue years ago, but everybody went for the classic Tex-Mex enchiladas, chicken-fried steaks and fried chicken.

The name is listed sometimes as ”Jesús Family Restaurant.” But the name “BBQ” stuck.

The fried pies are back, by the way. It’s open for lunch Tuesdays through Saturdays; 810 S. Main St.

(Campisi’s “Egyptian” kept the neon sign from a previous tenant.)

An enchilada plate at Jesús BBQ Family Restaurant, a landmark in South Main Village.
An enchilada plate at Jesús BBQ Family Restaurant, a landmark in South Main Village. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Walloon’s in Fort Worth is open

Hey, Bud! I saw Walloon’s is open. What’s it like?

—Reader at twitter.com/eatsbeat

Chef Marcus Paslay’s new restaurant is part New Orleans and part Chicago, with oysters, redfish, salmon and also a steak, a burger, an Italian beef and other entrees.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily at 701 W. Magnolia Ave. Park in the adjacent garage; walloonsrestaurant.com

Walloon’s is in a new office complex at Hemphill Street and West Magnolia Avenue.
Walloon’s is in a new office complex at Hemphill Street and West Magnolia Avenue. Handout photo

This story was originally published July 27, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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