Eats Beat

A little restaurant in southwest Fort Worth serves Grandma’s cooking, and cafe de olla

The great little interior Mexico restaurants in Fort Worth are mostly in the central city.

One striking exception: La Casa de Lina, hidden away in a strip shopping center at 5216 Wedgmont Circle North, off Granbury Road south of Interstate 20.

Open five years, La Casa de Lina has only grown its reputation for homestyle cooking to make the owners’ grandmother, Lina, proud.

It’s one of few restaurants in Fort Worth serving cafe de olla, the traditional sweet, cinnamon-spiced coffee made in a clay pot.

Both the cafe de olla and the housemade horchata are served in handmade terra cotta cups sold at the counter.

Horchata and cafe de olla, a cinnamon-spiced coffee, at Casa de Lina in Fort Worth July 1, 2023.
Horchata and cafe de olla, a cinnamon-spiced coffee, at Casa de Lina in Fort Worth July 1, 2023. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

That’s popular daily at breakfast, along with the chilaquiles verdes with optional chicken adobo or a sunny-side-up egg.

The weekend breakfast menu offers both menudo and pozole.

The lunch and dinner menu includes less common items such as sopes, green chile pork or chicken mole.

There’s also a pambazo, a fried sandwich stuffed with potatoes and chorizo or chicken, then dipped in guajillo sauce. If you usually order birria tacos, try a pambazo.

Chilaquiles verdes and tamales at La Casa de Lina as seen Dec. 23, 2019.
Chilaquiles verdes and tamales at La Casa de Lina as seen Dec. 23, 2019. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

(If you’re looking for mesquite-grilled fajitas or beef enchiladas, try the Abuelo’s or the On the Border down Interstate 20. La Casa de Lina is all about tacos, tortas and interior Mexico cooking.)

Desserts include “Lina’s” homemade flan, thicker and creamier with a richer caramel sauce than what is usually served in restaurants.

It’s open from breakfast through dinner weekdays and Saturdays, breakfast and lunch Sundays; 682-499-5884, https://www.facebook.com/lacasadelina.

This story was originally published July 3, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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