Eats Beat

‘It’s frankly not fair’: Fort Worth restaurants face road work, zoo spring break

The Fort Worth Zoo brings a jackpot of 100,000 customers to nearby restaurants during spring break.

But traffic this year is slowed by construction warnings and barricades, and that’s also become a headache for some restaurateurs.

At Enchiladas Olé, amid horrendous traffic at 2418 Forest Park Blvd., owner Mary Patino Vásquez said lunch delivery and takeout orders Wednesday went unclaimed and tickets had to be refunded. Drivers couldn’t get through to pick them up.

An Enchiladas Ole worker delivers an order for carryout.
An Enchiladas Ole worker delivers an order for carryout. Handout photo

Across the zoo to the west, both South University Drive and parallel “back route” Rogers Road are under construction at the same time, although the University project was paused this week for a spring break that drew 22,142 people Wednesday alone.

“It’s just tough getting in and out,” said Jeff Day, manager at Courtside Kitchen, a pickleball complex and restaurant at 1615 Rogers Road behind the University Park Village shopping center.

It’s about to be tougher.

Traffic on University Drive will be squeezed to one or two lanes, and completely blocked on Rogers Road.

Even Courtside’s employees get stuck in traffic, Day said.

For now, patrons have to turn into the shopping center and weave their way through the parking lot, then turn onto Rogers to Courtside Kitchen and neighbor Rogers Roundhouse, a burger grill and patio at 1616 Rogers Road.

Courtside Kitchen pairs a full restaurant menu with pickleball courts.
Courtside Kitchen pairs a full restaurant menu with pickleball courts. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The work is also hurting weekday business at the Woodshed Smokehouse patio barbecue restaurant, 3201 Riverfront Drive, chef-owner Tim Love said.

Lunch crowds can’t get there. Delivery drivers may not try.

“It’s a really big pain for [the] valet and parking,” Love wrote in a text message. “It’s frankly not fair to just shut the street down.”

Spicy chicken nachos with fresh jalapenos at the Woodshed Smokehouse.
Spicy chicken nachos with fresh jalapenos at the Woodshed Smokehouse. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The street’s happiest restaurateur might be Rex Benson, third-generation owner of the 24-hour Ol’ South Pancake House family restaurant, a motorists’ landmark at 1509 University Drive.

Benson sent an online message complimenting city workers for being ahead of schedule and thanking them for rushing to get Ol’ South’s driveways and back entrance open.

Spring break families still found the Pancake House, he wrote: “It’s such an influx of people on University, we get overflow of people just not wanting to stay in traffic.”

A better-looking street will mean better business.

But that’ll take a while.

Chicken-and-waffles is a popular recent item at Ol’ South Pancake House.
Chicken-and-waffles is a popular recent item at Ol’ South Pancake House. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
Ol’ South Pancake House is serving family dinner packs along with its usual breakfasts.
Ol’ South Pancake House is serving family dinner packs along with its usual breakfasts. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published March 16, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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