Eats Beat

Chili, chicken surprising finds at seafood restaurants near the Fort Worth Stock Show

The Stock Show is surrounded by good seafood.

J&J Oyster Bar and Flying Fish both offer a seafaring change from the beefy diet, and both are worth a stop anytime year-round.

J&J Oyster Bar, 612 University Drive, has become the new outpost for the laid-back, carefree vibe formerly found at the old location of Fred’s Texas Cafe.

In 42 years, J&J’s catfish, shrimp, oysters and gumbo haven’t changed.

Oysters Rockefeller at J&J Oyster Bar.
Oysters Rockefeller at J&J Oyster Bar. Ron Jenkins Star-Telegram archive

But what has changed is a bold improvement: J&J now serves Texas sirloin chili and also grilled catfish tacos, both among the best in Fort Worth.

The new items have brought a playa beach feel to an old Fort Worth favorite.

When J&J opened in 1981 in a now-gone diner nearby, it was the first restaurant where many residents ever tried oysters Rockefeller, ceviche or a crawfish-sausage po-boy.

Grilled catfish tacos at J&J Oyster Bar.
Grilled catfish tacos at J&J Oyster Bar. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Today, the flavor is decidedly more spicy and the atmosphere is as close as you can get to a beach location inside a 50-year-old former Taco Bell.

The expanded menu still features fried catfish, cod, shrimp and chicken (about $10-$14) or grilled catfish, tilapia, snapper and tuna (about $11-$20).

There’s a selection of po-boy sandwiches, salads or shrimp tacos (about $13-$14).

A seafood cocktail and a grilled seafood combo platter at J&J Oyster Bar.
A seafood cocktail and a grilled seafood combo platter at J&J Oyster Bar. Ron Jenkins Star-Telegram archives

For the beef crowd, J&J now serves burgers and calf fries, including a bacon-and jalapeno-wrapped version.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily except Sundays; 817-367-9792, jjoysterbar.com.

J&J Oyster Bar has a relaxed atmosphere inside a long-ago Taco Bell.
J&J Oyster Bar has a relaxed atmosphere inside a long-ago Taco Bell. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

What’s new at Flying Fish restaurant

Flying Fish, 2913 Montgomery St., has a wider menu and more of a fishing-camp theme compared to J&J’s beach spirit.

But Flying Fish has two new items worth note and a regular special:

Chimichurri sauce is now available on all dishes, along with toppings such as “snappy” seasoning, garlic butter or Veracruz sauce.

Honestly, a butterflied grilled chicken platter with chimichurri tastes like it should cost far more than about $12. The fish choices range from catfish and tilapia up to trout, snapper, grouper and mahi-mahi.

The Caddo platter, named for owner Shannon Wynne’s beloved Caddo Lake, starts with sauteed tilapia and shrimp.

Then the entire platter is topped with cheese sauce and pico de gallo. It’s like a Tex-Mex take on a Cajun cream sauce.

Wednesday is still “all you can eat” catfish day.0

Flying Fish also serves catfish, tilapia or shrimp tacos or po-boys.

For an inexpensive lunch, just order the borracho beans-and-rice with pico.

Flying Fish, a corporate cousin to Rodeo Goat and the Flying Saucer, is open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-989-2277, flyingfishinthe.net.

This story was originally published January 16, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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