Eats Beat

Fried chicken, enchiladas, chicken-fried steak: Jesús Borja served it all in Fort Worth

Maria Martinez and her father Jesus Borja run the Jesus Family Restaurant on Main Street in Fort Worth.
Maria Martinez and her father Jesus Borja run the Jesus Family Restaurant on Main Street in Fort Worth. yyossifor@star-telegram.com

Jesús Borja (1929-2023), restaurateur for 80 years

Hey, Bud! I love Jesús BBQ but it’s been dark the last few times I’ve gone by. What’s up?

—South side guy

Jesús Borja, 92, one of the last cafe operators known for both cheese enchiladas and chicken-fried steak, died Wednesday morning after 80 years running restaurants in Guanajuato, Mexico, and since 1970 in Fort Worth.

Borja used to joke about diners coming in looking for a church.

Family members say the restaurant, 810 S. Main St., will take time off.

Maria Martinez and her late father Jesus Borja at the Jesus Family Restaurant on Main Street in Fort Worth.
Maria Martinez and her late father Jesus Borja at the Jesus Family Restaurant on Main Street in Fort Worth. Yffy Yossifor yyossifor@star-telegram.com

No Serendipity without much-missed salt

Hey, Bud! I used to see Jess Hall’s Serendipity Salt from Weatherford on restaurant tables. What’s happened?

—Weatherford guy

The late Jess Hall’s spice company made seasoned salts and hot sauces for years,but seems to be out of circulation for now after a sale and relocation in Fort Worth.

Grady Spears serving rodeo dinners

Chef Grady Spears.
Chef Grady Spears. Paul Moseley Star-Telegram archives

Hey, Bud! Is Grady Spears still doing rodeo dinners at that brewery?

—Roger, Fort Worth

Itinerant chef Grady Spears is doing a $45 chicken-fried steak dinner at 5:30 p.m. Wednesdays through Fridays Jan. 18-Feb. 3 at the Fort Brewery and Pizza, 2737 Tillar St. Buy advance tickets online (some nights are sold out) at fortbrewery.com/calendar.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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