Eats Beat

A beloved Arlington cafe says goodbye: ‘It was a crazy idea and we’ve had a great run’

Fork in the Road has reached it.

After a nine-year struggle, the eclectic central Arlington gourmet sandwich shop known for burgers and mac-and-three-cheese “crack-a-roni” will close Saturday, Dec. 3, chef Josh Hopkins said.

High food costs, the lack of help and the exhaustion of running a small restaurant figured into Hopkins’ decision not to renew the lease at 1821 S. Fielder Road, he said.

“When gasoline was $5 a gallon, food prices went up, too,” he said Monday after announcing the closing on social media.

Chef-owner Josh Hopkins of Fork in the Road in Arlington.
Chef-owner Josh Hopkins of Fork in the Road in Arlington. Bob Booth Star-Telegram archives

“But now, gasoline is under $3, but nobody’s prices are down. And you still can’t find what you need.”

Hopkins, a veteran of Dallas restaurants such as the Green Room and chef Stephan Pyles’ Star Canyon, opened the shop in 2014 to branch out with his own chef-driven burger-and-sandwich grill.

“It was a crazy idea, and we’ve had a great run,” he said. “I’m proud of what we built. I’m super happy about what we’ve done for Arlington.”

Three-cheese “crack-a-roni” at Fork in the Road in Arlington.
Three-cheese “crack-a-roni” at Fork in the Road in Arlington. Bob Booth Star-Telegram archives

Fork in the Road received a transfusion of support in June, when local Facebook foodie groups rallied around it as the No. 1 small, locally owned cafe in a city known for unique little burger grills and ethnic restaurants.

But business “died down again,” Hopkins said.

Since he announced the closing, he has received bitter social media complaints from customers who came back once or twice.

To find Arlington’s hidden-fave restaurant, look for the Fork in the Road.
To find Arlington’s hidden-fave restaurant, look for the Fork in the Road. Bob Booth Star-Telegram archives

“They thought that was enough,” he said. “But we’ve been living on the edge the last three years. It’s just us. We’re exhausted”

Fork in the Road will open regular hours this week: lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday; forkintheroadarlington.com.

This story was originally published November 28, 2022 at 10:55 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER