Eats Beat

A landmark since 1959, this burger grill near Fort Worth is about to change hands

The first Clown in town still stands tall.

But six decades of hamburger history will come to an end Dec. 16 when the iconic 1950s Clown Burger grill in Haltom City changes hands.

Before California clowns like McDonald’s or Jack-in-the-Box came to town, families from all over Fort Worth came to the Clown beginning in 1959 for 15-cent burgers, chili dogs and fresh-cut, thin french fries.

Kari Snodgrass of the founding Louthan family is leaving the Clown after — well, just say her whole life. She sold it to Haltom City residents Matt and Willis Odell.

The Clown, 5010 Stanley Keller Road off Haltom Road, will be open for lunch daily Tuesday through Friday through Dec. 16. Then, it closes for new equipment and a fresher look, Snodgrass said.

“I’ve been working in this kitchen since I was 11, but running it is totally different,” Snodgrass said this week, when Clown Burger opened again after a worker’s short illness.

A Clown Burger jalapeno double cheeseburger with fries.
A Clown Burger jalapeno double cheeseburger with fries. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Snodgrass’s father, Bill Louthan, retired in 2016 after 53 years working the grill.

“We’re not done yet!” she said.

As she spoke in mid-afternoon, customers were still straggling in for double cheeseburgers with grilled jalapenos (about $7) or a foot-long chili dog (about $5).

Clown Burger promises on a sign: “The burger you get today will taste exactly like the burger you would have ate here in 1959.”

Owner Kari Snodgrass in Clown Burger Nov. 16, 2022, on the verge of selling a 1950s burger diner that has been in her family since 1959.
Owner Kari Snodgrass in Clown Burger Nov. 16, 2022, on the verge of selling a 1950s burger diner that has been in her family since 1959. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

It does.

The ⅙-pound patties are the original old-school thin style, so order a double or triple cheeseburger to get a third-pound or half-pound.

The burgers, dogs and fries actually do taste like they always have, dating back to the days when Clown Burger started in a drive-in at 5512 E. Belknap St.

So far, the only changes are that the walls are cleaner and the trophy cases have been cleared out. Snodgrass’ family is keeping personal memorabilia, although the giant display of Elvis ephemera will stay.

Clown Burger is decorated with old clippings, an Elvis tribute and lots of signs. (Lots.)
Clown Burger is decorated with old clippings, an Elvis tribute and lots of signs. (Lots.) Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Willis Odell wrote in an online message that he is proud to keep Clown Burger family-owned by someone who grew up and lives in Haltom City.

He hopes to extend the hours into early evening.

Clown Burger is open at 11 a.m. for lunch Tuesdays through Fridays.

It’s 1 mile south of NE Loop 820 or 3 miles north of Texas 121; 817-298-1477, facebook.com/ClownBurger.

Clown Burger moved to Stanley Keller Road in 1985 from the original East Belknap Street location.
Clown Burger moved to Stanley Keller Road in 1985 from the original East Belknap Street location. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

This story was originally published November 17, 2022 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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