Eats Beat

That French restaurant in Fort Worth is getting a new owner, but he’s a familiar face

Restaurateur Bernard Tronche’s Paris 7th is changing hands to a longtime manager, but Tronche will keep his Saint-Émilion bistro, he said this week.

Chris Salvador, long a top staffer for Tronche and at much-missed Cacharel in Arlington, will take over Paris 7th in early 2023, both said.

One of Tronche’s best all-time chefs, Mark Hitri, is back as the new chef at the upscale Paris 7th, joining Salvador.

Salvador plans to refine the restaurant and make it “a dining experience,” he said.

Chris Salvador at Paris 7th restaurant in Fort Worth Nov. 9, 2022.
Chris Salvador at Paris 7th restaurant in Fort Worth Nov. 9, 2022. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Tronche shrugged his shoulders as he explained the decision.

At 65, “I don’t need to be running two restaurants anymore,” he said.

Tronche said he has known Salvador “literally since the day he was born.” Tronche worked with Salvador’s father at long-ago Calluaud’s in Dallas.

“He will do a great job — It’s time for a new point of view,” Tronche said.

Bernard Tronche in the dining room at Paris 7th Nov. 9, 2022.
Bernard Tronche in the dining room at Paris 7th Nov. 9, 2022. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Salvador said he plans to give Paris 7th, 3324 W. Seventh St., a fresh look with more art.

“We want to give the city what it deserves in the way of a fine restaurant,” he said.

Tronche said Paris 7th will thrive off the art museums, Dickies Arena and forthcoming Crescent hotel nearby.

But he is keeping Saint-Émilion, three blocks west at 3617 W. Seventh St., “because I love it — it has been my home for almost 40 years,” he said.

The tuile aux mures is the signature dessert at Paris 7th in Fort Worth. It features berries warmed in raspberry liquor with fromage blanc in a crunch pistachio and coconut cup.
The tuile aux mures is the signature dessert at Paris 7th in Fort Worth. It features berries warmed in raspberry liquor with fromage blanc in a crunch pistachio and coconut cup. Amanda McCoy amccoy@star-telegram.com

Tronche said he will continue in both restaurants for now, he said. Sometime next year, he will settle at Saint-Émilion.

From Valentine’s Day 1985, when Tronche opened Saint-Émilion, it was consistently ranked one of the top three restaurants in all of Dallas and Fort Worth, often No. 1. It also often won “most romantic.”

Five years ago, Tronche tried a Texas two-step.

He moved Saint-Émilion’s fine-dining menu and dishes such as fine French caviar, duck and lamb to the larger and more metropolitan Paris 7th.

Caviar at Saint-Emilion.
Caviar at Saint-Emilion. Handout photo

Then Tronche reopened Saint-Émilion as a cozy wine bistro with dishes such as escargots, fish or filet au poivre on a $55 prix-fixe menu.

“Saint-Émilion can be what it was always supposed to be — a country bistro with home cooking like in the French countryside, not in Paris,” Tronche said.

Chef Pascal Paviani also serves an Italian special.

The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion on West Seventh Street.
The redecorated but still comfy interior at Saint-Emilion on West Seventh Street. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Saint-Émilion is open for Wednesday night specials and serves its regular menu Thursday through Sunday nights; reserve only at Resy.com, saint-emilionrestaurant.com

Paris 7th serves dinner Wednesdays through Saturdays; reserve at OpenTable.com or Yelp.com and then confirm by phone at 817-489-5300, paris7th.com.

“The best thing that can happen,” Tronche said, “is if nothing changes.”

This story was originally published November 10, 2022 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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