Eats Beat

Brisket on a breakfast biscuit? It’s new at a Fort Worth southside restaurant

Hurtado Barbecue is open in Fort Worth.

And pitmaster Brandon Hurtado brought brisket biscuits.

Hurtado, the craft-barbecue restaurant that brought fans to downtown Arlington since 2018, is open for barbecue lunch platters and also breakfast brisket biscuits and smoked-sausage tacos at its new Fort Worth southside location.

The new Hurtado, 1116 Eighth Ave., opens at 7 a.m. until late afternoon for now.

It serves family platters named “El Patron” or “El Jefe” and basic plates for $15 and up with sides such as tater-tot casserole, garlic-chorizo green beans or elote.

A brisket biscuit with poblano sauce and a breakfast taco with brisket and sausage at Hurtado.
A brisket biscuit with poblano sauce and a breakfast taco with brisket and sausage at Hurtado. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The location joins Hurtado restaurants in Arlington and Little Elm.

But only the Fort Worth location serves breakfast, a carryover from previous tenant Derek Allan’s.

Hurtado serves a substantial breakfast taco all day with its jalapeno-cheese sausage or brisket, egg and Tater Tot casserole in a griddled flour tortilla ($5.50).

A nearby competitor, Heim Barbecue, also serves excellent breakfast tacos.

The red neon sign “breakfast” beckons from the new Hurtado Barbecue in Fort Worth.
The red neon sign “breakfast” beckons from the new Hurtado Barbecue in Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

But Hurtado also offers thick-sliced Texas brisket on a biscuit with egg, cheese and poblano sauce ($7.50). I’d skip the cheese and just add more poblano sauce or Hurtado’s table barbecue sauce.

While the weather’s nice, Hurtado is great for lunch on the shaded outdoor patio.

But at breakfast, it’s more of a grab-and-go place. If you’re looking for coffee or pancakes, go down Eighth Avenue to Old Neighborhood Grill or over to Magnolia Avenue and Paris Coffee Shop, now open seven days a week.

Hurtado’s location reopened in a quick turnaround without many changes from Derek Allan’s.
Hurtado’s location reopened in a quick turnaround without many changes from Derek Allan’s. Hurtado Barbecue

The new Hurtado competes head-to-head in the same southside market with three other state-ranked barbecue favorites: Heim, 1109 W. Magnolia Ave.; Panther City BBQ, now serving inside at 201 E. Hattie St. (Pennsylvania Avenue); and Smoke-A-Holics BBQ, 1417 Evans Ave.

Hurtado draws lines for his brisket and beef ribs, along with house-made poblano sausage, “Mexicue” birria tacos, smoked elotes and tortillas.

Brandon Hurtado’s third barbecue restaurant is on Fort Worth’s south side.
Brandon Hurtado’s third barbecue restaurant is on Fort Worth’s south side. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Hurtado started in 2018 as a pop-up serving brisket tacos, then opened in Arlington at 205 E. Front St., in February 2020.

Coincidentally, it was the same day that Goldee’s Barbecue, ranked No. 1 in the state by Texas Monthly, opened near Kennedale.

The new Hurtado will be open for breakfast and lunch daily except Mondays; 682-499-5913, hurtadobbq.com.

This story was originally published October 3, 2022 at 5:30 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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