Eats Beat

Leon Bridges’ tour of Fort Worth includes favorite Tex-Mex, sushi restaurants

Singing star Leon Bridges came up working in Fort Worth and Crowley restaurants, and now he’s telling the world about our best.

Bridges is known for his days busing tables at a chain Tex-Mex cafe and a steakhouse.

But in a new Apple Hyperlocal travel guide to Fort Worth, he recommends two of our very best local, unique restaurants.

His favorite Tex-Mex restaurant is one often listed here as the city’s best: El Paseo Mexican Restaurant, 5436 Jacksboro Highway in Sansom Park.

When El Paseo opened in 1987, it was in a tiny Jacksboro Highway shanty that was formerly the office for a used car lot.

Chicken tortilla soup at El Paseo.
Chicken tortilla soup at El Paseo. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

It had 11 tables, velvet bullfight paintings and a steady line of customers out the door for the Lerma family’s fajitas and giant combination plates, made from recipes inherited from a long-ago El Chico Restaurants cook back when that chain was family-owned.

Now, El Paseo is a Jacksboro Highway landmark known for balance.

Both the fajitas and the Tex-Mex combination dinners excel. Other have restaurants have either good fajitas or good enchiladas and tacos, but few have the same level of consistency.

Steak a la Mexicana at El Paseo.
Steak a la Mexicana at El Paseo. Star-Telegram archives

“Tough call, but maybe the best Mexican restaurant in Fort Worth,” Bridges writes for Apple. “It’s off the beaten path but definitely a gem.”

El Paseo is open for lunch and dinner daily except Mondays; 817-625-9755, elpaseomex.com. There’s also an Azle location, 100 W. Main St.

El Paseo Mexican Restaurant in Sansom Park.
El Paseo Mexican Restaurant in Sansom Park. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

It’s always a tough call to pick the best from among El Paseo; La Playa Maya, with several locations; Los Asaderos, 1535 N. Main St.; and more -Mex and less Tex- restaurants like Benito’s Mexican Cuisine, 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., and Esperanza’s Restaurant & Bakery, 2122 N. Main St.

These days, Fort Worth also has flashy upscale restaurants such as Maria’s, 1712 S. University Drive; Mesero, 4955 Gage Ave.; Meso Maya, 3050 S. Hulen St.; and Paloma Suerte, 122 E. Exchange Ave.

Asian noodle soup.at Tokyo Cafe.
Asian noodle soup.at Tokyo Cafe. Joyce Marshall Star-Telegram archives

Tokyo Cafe: sushi with a ‘Texas take’

For sushi, Bridges recommends Tokyo Cafe, 5121 Pershing Ave. near the corner of Merrick Street and Camp Bowie Boulevard.

“Favorite low-key sushi spot,” Bridges wrote. “Reminds me of all the great strip mall places in Los Angeles, but with a Texas take.”

A seaweed salad (left) and a California roll (right) await those who visit Fort Worth’s Tokyo Cafe on Camp Bowie Blvd.
A seaweed salad (left) and a California roll (right) await those who visit Fort Worth’s Tokyo Cafe on Camp Bowie Blvd. Ron Jenkins Star-Telegram archives

Tokyo Cafe, owned by the Ho family and known recently for the work of chef/personality Kevin Martinez, opened in 1997 and operated briefly as Teriyaki House before changing names and menus.

It’s still the most consistently busy sushi restaurant in Fort Worth, although some patrons prefer Little Lilly Sushi, 6100 Camp Bowie Blvd., a 2014 “Best New Restaurants” pick in Texas Monthly. Crowds also find newer Hatsuyuki Handroll Bar, 907 Foch St.

Tokyo Cafe is open for lunch and dinner daily except Sundays and Mondays; 817-737-8568, tokyocafefw.com.

Cherry for a coffee stop

Bridges also favored Cherry Coffee Shop, 1121 W. Magnolia Ave. “I love coming here to write or catch up with friends,” he wrote.

It’s next to Bridges’ recommended Magnolia Wine Bar, 1101 W. Magnolia Ave.

This story was originally published March 7, 2022 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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