Eats Beat

Here’s a new craft barbecue restaurant in Mansfield. Plus — it has brunch pancakes

Brunch at Del Toro BBQ: Pancakes with honey-glazed ribs, elote, a brisket chalupa and cornbread with chili and cole slaw.
Brunch at Del Toro BBQ: Pancakes with honey-glazed ribs, elote, a brisket chalupa and cornbread with chili and cole slaw. bud@star-telegram.com

It was only a matter of time before a corporate chain tried to break into the craft barbecue business.

The new Del Toro BBQ, 109 S. Main St., in Mansfield, is the first. And it’s actually pretty good.

Del Toro, owned by El Fenix and Snuffer’s, is a corporate knockoff of local “Mexi-que” restaurants such as Hurtado Barbecue in Arlington and Panther City BBQ in Fort Worth.

It’s not as good as either of those restaurants. But it’s better than other barbecue chains, and some of the dishes are genius.

For example, Del Toro opens at 10 a.m. weekends to serve a Texas breakfast of the gods: pancakes and honey-glazed pork rib ends ($10).

Brunch at Del Toro BBQ: Pancakes with honey-glazed ribs, elote, a brisket chalupa and cornbread with chili and cole slaw.
Brunch at Del Toro BBQ: Pancakes with honey-glazed ribs, elote, a brisket chalupa and cornbread with chili and cole slaw. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

There are birria tacos, brisket chili and homestyle cornbread, plus other special items and sides to keep customers coming back to the Backyard, a restaurant complex next door to corporate chain cousin Twisted Root Burger.

Sure, Del Toro offers the familiar prime brisket, jalapeno sausage, pork, ribs, turkey and pork belly burnt ends, plus beef ribs and quail. A sandwich is $13, or a two-meat plate with a side dish starts at $18.

The dining room for Del Toro BBQ, a new restaurant from the owners of El Fenix and Snuffer’s.
The dining room for Del Toro BBQ, a new restaurant from the owners of El Fenix and Snuffer’s. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The sides ($4) have the same stepped-up touch as craft barbecue restaurants, from elote or cabbage to “super green” cole slaw. There’s also a choice of salads ($10, $16 with brisket or turkey).

Del Toro also offers a house special brisket sandwich with cole slaw and chimichurri ($14).

On the Mexi-que side, Del Toro offers nachos, queso, birria tacos ($6), brisket tostadas ($6), and a chili brisket tostada ($5) among other choices.

Del Toro BBQ is in the Backyard in Mansfield.
Del Toro BBQ is in the Backyard in Mansfield. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Cornbread is either a dessert (with dulce de leche) or a hearty side dish or entree (“loaded” with chili, brisket, bacon, cheese and slaw, $10).

The layout is disjointed, but it’s supposed to look like a retro taco stand, not like a new chain restaurant.

Tip: If there’s a line, you can also plop down and order at the fully stocked bar.

Del Toro is open for lunch and dinner daily and opens at 10 a.m. for brunch weekends; 817-779-4020, Del Toro (deltorobbq.com).

(Yes, that means you start a day with breakfast at Del Toro and then make the south Tarrant County barbecue tour from Fort Worth or Dallas to statewide No. 1 Goldee’s in Kennedale, the original Jambo’s BBQ in Rendon, old favorite Cousin’s in south Fort Worth and Everman favorites Hickory Stick and Longoria’s.)

The menu and order line for Del Toro BBQ in Mansfield.
The menu and order line for Del Toro BBQ in Mansfield. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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