Eats Beat

New seafood, ‘Fort Worth-Tex-Mex’ restaurants are off to a fast start in Fort Worth

Two new chef-driven Fort Worth restaurants are off to a fast start.

The Fitzgerald, a seafood restaurant, and Paloma Suerte, “Fort Worth-Tex-Mex,” opened within days last week, both to steady business for chefs Ben Merritt and Tim Love.

The Fitzgerald, 6115 Camp Bowie Blvd., impressed early with its dark, thick seafood gumbo ($18) and hummingbird cake dessert ($12).

Merritt’s most popular entrees appeared to be the blackened redfish with chorizo and succotash ($22) and a special fried catfish with poblano grits and garlic green beans ($22).

Other notable menu items: barbecued shrimp ($30) or shrimp-crawfish pasta in cream sauce with bacon and artichokes ($28).

The dining room at The Fitzgerald, chef Ben Merritt’s Fort Worth seafood restaurant.
The dining room at The Fitzgerald, chef Ben Merritt’s Fort Worth seafood restaurant. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Yes, the menu also offers steaks and chicken, a variety of mac-and-cheese specials and a bourbon-caramel bread pudding with Plano-based Henry’s butter pecan ice cream.

For now, it’s open for dinner weeknights and Saturdays, with lunch hours coming later; 817-349-9245, eatatfitz.com.

Paloma Suerte is in a former horse and mule barn in the Stockyards’ ”Mule Alley.” Chef Tim Love is at left.
Paloma Suerte is in a former horse and mule barn in the Stockyards’ ”Mule Alley.” Chef Tim Love is at left. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Paloma Suerte, 122 E. Exchange Ave. inside the Mule Alley shopping center, opened to immediate crowds. It’s Love’s fifth Stockyards restaurant.

The celebrity TV chef promised “Fort Worth-Tex-Mex” and backed it up with a simple menu featuring birria tacos, fajitas and enchiladas, along with premium margaritas and guacamole or queso made tableside.

At lunch Saturday, every customer in sight was dipping the beef, duck or cabrito birria tacos ($16-$18).

But the poblano chicken enchiladas ($18) deserved attention for a creamy green sauce that is almost as good as the one at nearby Los Asaderos.

Nachos with fresh-made guacamole and chicken enchiladas poblano at Paloma Suerte.
Nachos with fresh-made guacamole and chicken enchiladas poblano at Paloma Suerte. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Nachos ($12) were trimmed in pickled jalapenos with an interesting hint of curry flavor.

Customers choose Mexican restaurants for the chips and hot sauce, and Paloma Suerte’s salsa is garlicky with just enough burn.

In short, Paloma Suerte already feels like a familiar Fort Worth stop.

It’s in Mule Alley along the east side of Saunders Park behind Lonesome Dove Western Bistro.

(Local insiders’ tip: Park west of Main and walk down the dark alley under the Miller beer sign across from Stockyard Saloon, 2409 N. Main St. There’s a walkway that leads across Marine Creek and steps to Paloma Suerte. Or pay $15 to valet park.)

Paloma Suerte is open for dinner weeknights, lunch and dinner weekends; 682-267-0414, palomasuerteftx.com

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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