Is Texas the last outpost of mustard burgers? One chain’s big switch to ketchup-mayo
Is Texas the last outpost of mustard?
An Oklahoma-based drive-in chain has switched its primary burger toppings to ketchup-and-mayo, shifting mustard to a special-order option after 70 years.
That’s not the only change. Sonic Drive-In has completely updated the old-time drive-in burger, offering thicker beef patties cooked differently, a new seasoning and crisper, fresh pickles with chopped lettuce.
Sonic also added a burger with special “crave” sauce, offering more of a kick that those other special sauces on Illinois-based McDonald’s Big Mac or the “secret sauce” at California-based Jack in the Box.
But that wasn’t the news that shook Texas burger lovers.
In a state where mustard-loyal Whataburger has more Facebook followers than Gov. Greg Abbott, and where out-of-state chains routinely offer a special “Texas homestyle burger” with mustard, Sonic posted a warning on each order board:
“NEW Sonic Cheeseburgers Now served with KETCHUP & MAYO”
It was chef Scott Uehlein’s idea. He downplays any societal significance to the now-sprawling chain’s switch away from a Southwestern favorite to a more national flavor for its 3,500-plus locations in 42 states.
“If we didn’t have the flexibility of the [smartphone] app ... we might not have changed,” he said by phone.
More and more customers every day order online or via the app instead of shouting into a loudspeaker. They can check off the exact options.
Texas has “always been a mustard market,” but other states have not, he said.
Sonic heavily tested the new burgers, made with Heinz ketchup and mayo, and diners liked the sweet-and-savory option, he said.
“Is this a changing of America’s palate? Maybe it is,” he said.
Other companies weren’t quite so sure.
“Mustard continues to be a fan favorite at Dairy Queens in Texas,” was the email message from Carolyn Alvey, speaking for Texas Dairy Queen.
Look, this space is not normally devoted to fast-food discussions.
But this change was interesting.
The new toppings don’t always work. A chili burger still needs mustard. So does a jalapeno cheeseburger.
But the new Sonic effort is reminiscent of better burgers at old-time soda fountains, and the “crave” burger has the same zest as the legendary No. 5 at Keller’s Drive-In in Dallas, ranked one of the nation’s best drive-ins.
“We really set out to build a best-in-class burger,” Uehlein said.
Sonic needed something. The chain, now owned by Georgia-based Inspire Brands along with Arby’s and Buffalo Wild Wings, always seemed like a polished-up version of iconic Dairy Queen, but with less flavor.
The chain’s new burgers are strikingly different from others’. Even on a mustard burger, the fresh pickles taste like an upgrade.
”It was time for guests to get a real burger in a fast-food restaurant,” Uehlein said.
His favorite childhood burger was the original Whopper, before Burger King aged and sales declined.
The original Whopper was made with ketchup-and-mayo.
Texans still ordered mustard.
This story was originally published July 14, 2021 at 5:45 AM.
