Eats Beat

After 33 years, one of Fort Worth’s top Mexican restaurants prepares for Cinco de Mayo

Chicken nachos at La Playa Maya in Ridglea.
Chicken nachos at La Playa Maya in Ridglea. bud@star-telegram.com

We might disagree on the best Mexican restaurant in Fort Worth.

But for 33 years, La Playa Maya has been a strong top-3 favorite, and to faithful patrons at locations across the city, it’s their neighborhood No. 1.

The first La Playa opened in 1988 as a tiny beach-style Mexican seafood restaurant on West Central Avenue.

Founder Lupe Ayala had been running an upscale Mexican restaurant in Dallas and heard Fort Worth needed Yucatán-style shrimp and ceviche.

But customers went for the enchiladas and fajitas.

Now, there are four La Playa Maya locations to celebrate the anniversary May 3, including the flagship at 1540 N. Main St.

“I was an idiot 27-year-old with a lot of dreams and not much sense,” Ayala said.

“The honest truth is, I had only visited Fort Worth once. ... I just wanted someplace different from all the other Tex-Mex restaurants,” Ayala said.

La Playa Maya’s menu has expanded to include specials like a brisket-stuffed chile relleno “Tejano” ($14.95), a carne-asada-and-shrimp dinner ($19.95) and tilapia Yucatán in a tequila-cream sauce ($15.95).

Pollo con champiñones (chicken with sauteed mushrooms and poblanos) at La Playa Maya in Ridglea.
Pollo con champiñones (chicken with sauteed mushrooms and poblanos) at La Playa Maya in Ridglea. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

One striking dish that isn’t on many menus is pollo con champiñones — a chicken breast smothered in sauteed porcini mushrooms, onions and poblanos, grilled and served on a sizzling skillet that arrives steaming ($13.95). It can easily serve two.

“That’s a dish one of our customers requested,” Ayala said.

“I guarantee half my menu is from people asking me for stuff.”

North and south side customers favor the shrimp cocktail and tilapia platters. West side and Hudson Oaks guests go for beef enchiladas and fajitas.

“We still do a lot of ceviche everywhere,” he said.

“To the north and south side we’re a mariscos [seafood] joint. On the west side and in Hudson Oaks we’re their Mexican restaurant.”

Carne asada with shrimp, shrimp cocktail and ceviche at La Playa Maya in Ridglea.
Carne asada with shrimp, shrimp cocktail and ceviche at La Playa Maya in Ridglea. Jessica Kourkounis Star-Telegram archives

The second La Playa Maya opened in 1991 at 3200 Hemphill St. in a house that is now 111 years old.

That was followed in 1998 by the large La Playa Maya flagship on North Main Street in the former City Hall for the old city of North Frt Worth.

In 1999, a Ridglea location opened at 6209 Sunset Drive, and 2002 brought a Weatherford location that is now at 3039 Fort Worth Highway in Hudson Oaks.

“I think the one thing that has changed over the years is that people require more of a mix of menu items and a well-presented plate,” Ayala said.

A margarita on the rocks at the Ridglea La Playa Maya.
A margarita on the rocks at the Ridglea La Playa Maya. Jessica Kourkounis Star-Telegram archives

“People used to just say they were going out for Mexican food,” he said. “Now, they want an attractive setting and a good overall experience.”

The patio at La Playa Maya in Ridglea will be expanded and upgraded this summer, he said. The Hudson Oaks patio also will be improved.

When the first La Playa opened in 1988, it was surrounded by traditional old Tex-Mex restaurants that are now gone: Jiménez, Sammy’s and El Rancho Grande.

Cinco de Mayo wasn’t even a busy holiday yet. The next year, 1989, Corona started a national ad campaign for Cinco.

Now, it’s part of La Playa Maya’s anniversary week.

La Playa Maya is open for lunch and dinner daily. It’s also one of the few Mexican restaurants offering a full online ordering system; laplayamaya.com.

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This story was originally published April 20, 2021 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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