Eats Beat

One of Fort Worth’s best hole-in-the-wall restaurants is back — with a side window

One of Fort Worth’s best little hole-in-the-wall restaurants reopened this week, and now we need to keep it open.

That means:

1. Buy Tex-Mex enchiladas and combination dinners from Jesús Barbecue, 810 S. Main St. It’s really a 50-year-old Tex-Mex restaurant owned by 91-year-old Jesús Borja; and

2. Order by phone or at the side takeout window. There’s no dining room service, so his family can stay protected and in turn keep Borja safe.

Frankly, I’m surprised more restaurants don’t switch to takeout and curbside only for now. Restaurant workers are at incredible risk, taking orders from well-meaning diners who already took off their masks.

Jesús Barbecue reopened this week with a limited menu of the dishes that won it “Best Tex-Mex” in one local publication.

Jesús is best known for enchiladas in chili and cheese — filled with cheese, beef or chicken (about $9-$11).

Yes, this is an old-school chili con carne Tex-Mex restaurant.

On a visit this week, the chicken tostadas ($8.70) also proved to be a textbook example of classic Tex-Mex, covered in chunky white meat chicken, just enough beans and cheese, with a side dish of Jesús’ distinctive red-and-green salsa.

The menu is limited right now: combination dinners, crispy or soft tacos, burritos, nachos and huevos rancheros or chilaquiles.

The menu also offers burgers, sandwiches, chef’s salads and taco salads. (The beloved fried chicken and chicken-fried steak haven’t returned yet.)

Jesús Barbecue is open from lunch through late afternoon weekdays and Saturdays; 817-332-0168, facebook.com/JesusBBQ.

Listen to our daily briefing:

This story was originally published December 16, 2020 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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